When I wake up in the morning and draw back the curtains of my room high above Lucerne, the world has changed. Just yesterday, people strolled along the promenade of Lake Lucerne—coats open, sunglasses on—now thick flakes drift down onto the water, the houses, and the seventeenth-century wooden bridges. The mountains we looked out upon from the terrace 24 hours ago are lost in a veil of white and grey.

Lucerne is internationally renowned for its combination of an elegant city centre, a vast lake, and the thrilling mountains that surround it—all easily accessible by bus, train, and boat. Following in the footsteps of writers and painters, European nobility came to the city in the nineteenth century to discover its beauty. In summer, of course. And it has always been somewhat like that.

But how wonderful it is to experience that enchanting blend in winter! Wandering through the historic centre, sipping glühwein to warm up, watching the sunset from the 2,128-metre-high Pilatus as clouds chase snow across the rocks, enjoying trendy dining in Neustadt, hiking on the Rigi, dancing with locals in a former swimming pool, freeriding in Engelberg… And where else can you hop on a boat in the morning for a day of skiing?

One might call Lucerne conservative, or better yet: classic. But in a delightful way. The city moves forward without forgetting its past. The historic palace hotels exude a modern atmosphere, the local specialty Chügelipastete now has a vegan variant, and alongside composer Wagner’s villa lies Switzerland’s own Paradiso: Schüür.

Moreover, Lake Lucerne offers something extra. Like that morning with low-hanging clouds. I drift on my little sauna boat in that tranquil world. The engine is off, and the first session is over. Cooling down on the back deck. All shades of grey blend softly into one another. At the horizon, it’s hard to say where the water ends, and the sky begins. With my feet in the icy water, I feel happiness rise within me.