Indigenous Experiences in The Puna de Atacama
Guardians of Aymara Culture
A journey through the Andean highlands unveils a vibrant mosaic of Indigenous traditions that have thrived for thousands of years. Our destination is a testament to the history of resilience and rural empowerment of Aymara women. In a rapidly changing world, these women have found a unique way to adapt through tourism without compromising their essence.
‘Don’t take that route; there are usually bandits.’ A recommendation like that is not to be taken lightly. As we are told, in the area we’re about to cross, Bolivian bandits hunt for tourist cars, even going so far as to scatter nails on sections of the road to puncture tyres. ‘If something happens to you in those two kilometres, the Chilean police won’t be able to help you,’ they warn us. The alternative, however, is a mountain pass on a dirt road full of holes and ditches. What the heck? It may be time to take a little risk.
‘Don’t take that route; there are usually bandits.’
A recommendation like that is not to be taken lightly
From Putre to Cariquima
We are in the northeasternmost part of Chile, a wild and extremely beautiful territory of snow-capped volcanoes, salt plains – and bandits. We are very close to the Bolivian border, in the highlands, the Puna de Atacama.
‘I didn’t sleep a wink last night, I tell my travel companion, photographer Frits, as we get into the car. Today, it’s your turn to drive. Sleeping at an altitude of above four thousand metres has always been challenging for me. I find it very difficult to sleep, and I expected to be exhausted the next day. Or, as they say around here, ‘puneados’ – punished. It’s a toll you must pay to travel through and enjoy some of the most spectacular landscapes in the world.
We won’t encounter a single car on the way, and we’ll barely feel the presence of humans – not even bandits
Our mission: to reach the village of Cariquima from Putre – a high-altitude itinerary for a road trip through Lauca National Park, Las Vicuñas Nature Reserve, and Isluga Volcano National Park. A journey decorated with salt plains, hot springs, and oases, between mines, cacti, and geoglyphs. Small villages with centuries-old churches, snow-capped volcanoes, and lagoons with flamingos. Alpacas, rheas, viscachas, and llamas, bofedales (a type of wetland), hot springs, and geysers. And the most impressive starry skies on the planet.
Driving on these roads demands attention, composure, and a suitable 4X4 vehicle. The higher we go, the better. Being well-prepared with water, food, and enough gasoline is crucial. No one wants to be caught off guard in the middle of nowhere, especially with the extreme dropping temperatures at night. The route takes us through an endless expanse of pampas and volcanoes punctuated by tiny settlements. We won’t encounter a single car on the way, and we’ll barely feel the presence of humans – not even bandits. It’s an indescribable sense of desolation.
Pachamama
‘I’m the only local tourism entrepreneur here,’ says Susana García Mamami with some pride as she welcomes us to Cariquima. Susana is a businesswoman and local guide leading Andino Travel, an agency specialising in tourist itineraries in the Tarapacá region, right in the heart of the Andes. Since 2018, she has worked tirelessly to develop tourism in her region, an effort that began as the leader of a women’s artisan cooperative and has now led her to own her own tourism business, which has won the award for best regional operator several times in the past years and has transformed the lives of a group of Aymara women – Indigenous Peoples in the Andes and Altiplano regions of South America – who are part of the communities and villages in the area.
‘I am connected to Pachamama, to this land and its inhabitants, and you can feel that in our tours’
For Susana, tourism is more than just a business; it’s a way of life that reflects her deep connection with Pachamama, Mother Earth. ‘I am connected to Pachamama, to this land and its inhabitants, and you can feel that in our tours,’ she says with conviction. Susana and the other Aymara women are redefining what it means to be guardians of their culture, combining tradition and modernity to respect and honour their roots.
‘In our Altiplano Tour, I alternate visits to the most beautiful places in our region with experiences involving different communities. I want everyone to participate and get excited about the idea.’ In every tour they offer, in every story they share, you can feel the strength of their heritage and their vision for the future – a future where local communities are the protagonists of their development. ‘For tourists, things we do daily are unique experiences.’
Among Corrals and Alpacas
The stories of these women are not just tales of entrepreneurship but also of how they keep ancestral traditions and knowledge alive. We meet Susana in Colchane, near the Bolivian border. Further into the countryside, near the picturesque church of San Jerónimo and Candelaria, we pass by numerous stone corrals and quinoa fields. A woman greets us from afar.
‘Since I started walking, I began herding with my grandmother and mother,’ says Celia Challapa. Originally from the village of Cotasai, Celia is another Aymara woman whose life reflects a deep connection with the land and animals. She dresses in the traditional Aymara style: a colourful manta or aguayo (woven blanket), hat, and chalón (a long shawl, usually from linen). She also carries a sling, ‘to defend myself from foxes and other animals that want to attack the herd,’ she says while demonstrating her skill with the sling by shooting a stone a great distance. ‘We learned and worked from the age of three or four. But much has changed in the last twenty years: children no longer know, nor do they approach the animals.’
‘The alpaca is stubborn, more so than the llama, that’s why when people get angry, they say they ‘come like
an alpaca’
‘I have sixteen alpacas,’ she tells us while we hear the animals bleating like little kittens. ‘In this area, everyone has their livestock, and everyone herds,’ she says while stroking one of her alpacas. Working with these animals provides meat and wool and is an integral part of life in the Puna. In this environment, every resource is maximised. ‘We sell the wool and meat. The meat is highly prized because it’s very juicy, and the wool is good for textiles: scarves, shawls, ponchos, socks, hats, gloves… We used to dress entirely in this!’
As we walk, several imposing hills around us constantly remind us of the legends that have shaped these women’s worldview. Celia tells us some of these stories, passed down from generation to generation, which explain not only the geography of the surroundings but – almost like soap operas – also human relationships and their challenges.
Celia invites us to lunch – potatoes, charqui (a type of cooked beef), quinoa, canchita (toasted corn) – before we say goodbye. An alpaca resists returning to the corral. ‘The alpaca is stubborn, more so than the llama, that’s why when people get angry, they say they ‘come like an alpaca’’
More Than a Cereal
Quinoa and alpacas are the foundation of subsistence in the Puna. The process of planting, harvesting, and processing quinoa is an art passed down from mothers to daughters for generations.
‘Everything comes from quinoa,’ says Teófila Challapa, who wears a hat with a red band, a traditional alpaca wool outfit, and colourful, long necklaces. We are under a small, thatched shelter in her yard. In front of us, her octogenarian grandfather works in a small garden. He approaches with a bundle of zipotola wood, a shrub from the pampa. ‘It has many uses: for dyeing or even medicinally, along with a lemon infusion,’ she tells us.
It smells so good; I want to eat it right now, I tell Teófila. ‘There’s still more to do,’ she replies
Teófila shows us different varieties of quinoa in various colours, ‘although the red one is the tastiest.’ With slow but firm movements, she bends to light the fire with matches and delicately pours the quinoa onto a tray. With a bunch of plant straw from the bofedales, she stirs it until the cereal crackles and transfers it from one container to a stone bowl called taquiraña. It smells so good; I want to eat it right now, I tell Teófila. ‘There’s still more to do,’ she replies.
She raises the bowl above her head and with the skill of a juggler lets the wind blow away the husks. The quinoa is then passed through a sieve and is almost ready. Teófila shows us the result in her hands. ‘It is our ancestral product, the one we have grown up with flour, semolina, juices, rice pudding…’ What is your favourite dish with quinoa? I ask. ‘Huipo: toasted flour, which, with water and a little sugar, makes a great lunch.’
Spinning Fine Threads
‘This is my village!’ exclaims Susana proudly as we arrive in Ancuaque, where a group of local women is waiting to show us their weaving art. Leading the group is Teófila, who greets us with a smile. We walk up to the comadre, the ancient gathering place used in the village for meetings and celebrations. ‘Sometimes we get together in a group to weave; it’s a good opportunity to chat and share opinions.’
A gentle breeze blows as the golden light of the afternoon illuminates the beautiful highland landscape surrounding us. The group takes a seat and calmly lays out their threads and tools. Teófila invites me to sit next to her. ‘From taking care of the animal to having the final garment, it’s a process that I love,’ she tells me. ‘Before starting, first, you have to care for the animal for three years before shearing it,’ she says, referring to the alpacas. ‘There are several species, each with its type of wool and colours,’ she explains, showing us different threads. ‘For a shepherd, their flock is like a bank account,’ Susana interjects. ‘If they need money, they slaughter a llama for meat or an alpaca for wool.’
As she speaks, Teófila weaves what will be a colourful traditional blanket. ‘Once it’s sheared, cleaning and washing are the most laborious parts; you must remove the lumps and roughness.’ Her companion chews coca leaves while helping with the process. ‘Most of the wool we weave ourselves, but they also buy it from us raw or already spun.’
‘For a shepherd, their flock is like a bank account. If they need money, they slaughter a llama for meat or an alpaca for wool’
Vision for the future
‘Tourism covers two aspects: the preservation and transmission of our knowledge and skills,’ Danisa Moscosa, president of the Aymara community of Inquaque, tells me. Through tourism, these women ensure that their culture and knowledge are not lost but strengthened and adapted to modern times. ‘My vision for the future is to make Cariquima a tourist village, but one where the locals invest in and take charge of the businesses and tourist experiences,’ Susana tells me. She has shown great determination over the past two days, making us confident that this vision will come true.
In Aymara culture, protective mountains, known as Mallku, are revered for their power and wisdom. Similarly, with their wisdom and strength, Susana and these women have become the Mallku of their communities, ensuring that Aymara traditions and culture remain alive for future generations.
Experience the Altiplano with Andino Travel
Andino Travel is a certified tour operator offering specialised tours that showcase the wonders of the ancestral Andean territory in the Tarapacá region. Through activities designed to ensure a unique and unforgettable experience alongside local inhabitants, Andino Travel promotes interaction with nature, culture, and traditions.