Freeriding and Cruising in Engelberg and Klewenalp
The Best Slopes of Lucerne
The area around Lucerne offers excellent skiing, as Hans Avontuur discovers. Engelberg stands out as a premier freeride destination, with the thrilling Big Five – five easily accessible off-piste runs that are a must-try. Further on, in the Klewenalp ski area, you’ll find a relaxed winter atmosphere, with both comfortable, well-groomed pistes and off-piste opportunities.
Fresh snow has fallen. A few centimetres in the centre of Lucerne, half a metre or more in the mountains. Several ski resorts are easily accessible from the city by public transport. Today, Engelberg by train, tomorrow, Klewenalp by boat.
The almost spring-like weather of yesterday has given way to winter. Wonderful. Upon arrival in Engelberg, there’s good news and bad news. The upper lifts are closed due to avalanche danger, and visibility is zero. But… seventy centimetres of fresh snow have fallen, and local guide Dani knows the way: ‘We’ll definitely find some great runs. And it won’t be crowded.’
With each turn, the flakes rise so high that for a few seconds, you disappear into your own world
Engelberg is a true freeride destination. This reputation has gradually evolved over the years, particularly with the arrival of Swedish skiers who filmed and photographed the freeride scene. This reputation has grown further with the introduction of the Big Five, five easily accessible off-piste runs that you simply must experience.
Not today though. The gondola to the Klein Titlis at an altitude of 3,020 metres is closed. According to Dani, that’s no problem, however. With so much fresh snow, it’s already a paradise just off the piste. Our warm-up lap sets the tone right away. It’s almost waist-deep in the fresh snow. With each turn, the flakes rise so high that for a few seconds, you disappear into your own world.
We go in search of rock faces and trees, where the visibility is best. From the top of the Stand lift – which goes up to 2,428 metres and is still open – we traverse under a giant, steep slope. This has two advantages: we can see better, and there’s no avalanche danger due to the lack of large snow slopes. ‘Don’t be alarmed if anything comes down,’ says Dani. ‘At most, you’ll see small pockets of snow, nothing to worry about.’
I feel tiny beneath those massive rock walls. Meanwhile, Dani is scouting for the best line down. One with plenty of good snow. Found it
Wild and rugged
I feel tiny beneath those massive rock walls. Meanwhile, Dani is scouting for the best line down. One with plenty of good snow. Found it. Down we go. Searching for the right rhythm on this slope. A dream descent, all to ourselves. If the weather is fine tomorrow, a slope like this will be completely tracked out within half an hour. For now, we get another run.
A perfect day, despite the poor visibility. You don’t often get this much fresh snow. A route through a closed section of the resort – only suitable for freeriders with the right knowledge and equipment – takes us through the trees. It ends at the Stube of the Bergrestaurant Untertrübsee for rösti and large glasses of soft drinks.
The windows are steamed up, and the floor is wet from dripping gear. At the tables, skiers sit with blissful expressions. ‘This is what it’s all about in the mountains,’ says Dani. ‘Forget the Big Five or the one freeride run you have on your list, and just enjoy what’s possible. Look around and see how much fun everyone’s having.’
And that’s exactly right. Besides, it leaves something to look forward to. Like that one run for when the lift to the Klein Titlis does open. Then you descend 2,000 vertical metres from the top to the valley in one go without needing to take any other lifts. Also on the list: the panorama. ‘Up there, it looks wild and rugged,’ says Dani. ‘On the lift, you often think it’s impossible to ski through that. But once you’re on the terrain, it’s not so bad. The mountains welcome you.’
‘Free my soul,’ blares from the speakers. That’s already happened today
We descend and take the lift for a final run. The fog is now so thick that we stick to the trees. Every turn we can make is a bonus. Satisfied, we ski one last time from the top of the Stand down to the bottom. To top off the day at the Ski Lodge, an institution among freeriders. There are large glasses of beer, a band is playing, and I order a vegan burger.
‘Free my soul,’ blares from the speakers. That’s already happened today. Soon, I’ll take the train back to Lucerne, and tomorrow the boat to Klewenalp. ‘Oh man, that’s going to be great,’ says Dani. ‘The forecast promises low-hanging clouds and sunshine above!’ But first, an evening in the city. The train will take me back in 45 minutes.
Relaxing on Klewenalp
A sleek ship sails from the centre of Lucerne to the Klewenalp lift station the next day. A mini cruise of just over an hour. The captain blows the ship’s horn before departure, and as we set off, the wind catches the red Swiss flag on the stern. The city with its waterfront promenade slowly fades from view. To the right, we glide past historic hotels such as Montana, Palace, and National, the hotel of Switzerland’s most famous hotelier from history: César Ritz, son of a poor farmer from the Goms Valley.
The crossing builds anticipation nicely. There are two other skiers on board, and a snowboarder joins us in Vitznau. Once at the dock in Beckenried, signs point the way to the valley station of the Klewenalp lift. A few minutes’ walk with skis on our shoulders, and then we head up. It’s quiet in the cabin as it enters the clouds. Will we stay in the mist or break through it? A glimpse of blue? Yes! There it is, a winter wonderland. Blue sky, the landscape blanketed in white, the trees dressed in thick clumps of snow. It doesn’t get much better than this.
A glimpse of blue? Yes! There it is, a winter wonderland. Blue sky, the landscape blanketed in white, the trees dressed in thick clumps of snow. It doesn’t get much better than this
The Klewenalp ski area has a relaxed, low-key winter vibe. No hyped-up, fast-paced ski industry here, just simple and peaceful skiing. The number of piste kilometres – forty in total – is secondary to a greater goal: simple joys. Locals meet each other on the lifts and terraces.
‘Hallo Annie.’
‘Hallo Fritz.’
‘Wie geht’s Simone?’
‘So ein Tag Joseph!’
We head higher, away from the clouds threatening to spill over the edge of Klewenalp (1,593 m). On the distant horizon, the peak of the Rigi pierces through the mist. The transmission mast and hotel are clearly visible. To the right, there are also peaks poking through the clouds. From the top of the Chälen lift, a blue and a red piste begin. There’s also plenty of terrain for freeriders to let loose on a day like this.
I hit a few off-piste slopes, traversing in from the groomed piste and letting myself go in the knee-deep fresh snow that kicks up high with every turn
Pure snow fun
I start with a few comfortable, well-groomed runs to warm up. Relaxing on the edges of the skis. Left turn, right turn, left turn, right turn. Gradually picking up speed. On the slopes of the Schinberg (2,144 m) and Sätteli (1,757 m), the tracks of early skiers and snowboarders mark lines of pure snow fun.
With the sun shining over the ski area, visibility is at its max. I hit a few off-piste slopes, traversing in from the groomed piste and letting myself go in the knee-deep fresh snow that kicks up high with every turn. How would Engelberg be today? Maybe it’s a perfect day there, or maybe the best runs are closed due to avalanche danger. The terrain there is much steeper and more prone to avalanches than here.
You ski almost weightlessly over the slopes, surrounded by a forest wrapped entirely in white, nature’s sculptures
After a few hours, I take the route to Twäregg (1,498 m), the part of the ski area I haven’t yet explored. Normally, it’s a fairytale world among the trees, with two drag lifts and only blue slopes. No luck today. Zero visibility. No wonder there’s no one else here. Skiing by feel. Yet I take another run. You ski almost weightlessly over the blue slopes, surrounded by a forest of trees wrapped entirely in white, nature’s sculptures. Just be careful not to miss the valley station of the drag lift.
Back to the sun. To Ergglen (1,705 m), a rounded alp with views of mountains rising well above 2,000 metres. Benches, tables, and deckchairs are scattered in front of a small bar that’s doing good business. The temperature is mild, the panorama vast. Although closing time approaches, few people seem in a hurry to ski.
I want one last run down Chälen with its lovely wide red and blue slope. With the sun low on the snow, I make long, smooth turns on a piste that’s no longer as smooth as it was this morning. But the piled-up snow is so soft and light that I plough right through it with my all-mountain skis. The reward, however, lies further on. The mist over Lake Lucerne has almost cleared. The final runs now feel like skiing above water.
Soon, I’ll take a mini cruise back to Lucerne. With any luck, accompanied by the setting sun.
12 Ski Resorts Within Reach
Fancy a day of skiing, just like the locals in Lucerne? Plenty of choices. From the charming Stoos or Klewenalp to endless terrain in Engelberg and Andermatt. You can easily get there by train or boat. This way, you can make the most of the best of both worlds: city and nature.