Clouds, smugglers, and seven summits
Region Dents du Midi
Beneath the most beautiful peaks of Region Dents du Midi, where skiers now make carefree descents, smugglers tried to bring their contraband unseen from Switzerland to France. And vice versa. We follow the old routes and listen to the stories of the last contrabanders who crossed the mountains at the risk of their lives.
After two days of thick clouds, snow and fog, the Pas de Chavanette finally shows itself. At an altitude of 2,144 meters, winter athletes get ready for the famous Mur Suisse, a super steep unprepared run with high moguls. Or bosses, as they say here. One more quick selfie, bindings on, shoes closed and go.
Until deep into the 20th century, this pass was a notorious passage for smugglers from the poor farming villages on both the Swiss and French sides of the border. Risking their lives, they threw up to forty kilos of coffee, cigarettes, meat, sugar, shoes and even cow bells onto their backs. Some extra money had to be made to keep their heads above water.
…a super steep unprepared run with high moguls. Or bosses, as they say here. One more quick selfie, strap in, close shoes and go
Louis Perrin (95) remembers his first trip well. ‘As a boy of ten, eleven years old, I smuggled a pair of mountain boots to France. In exchange I got sheep back with them. After the transaction, I ran home. I haven’t run so fast in all my life. At home, the sheep were immediately slaughtered so they were untraceable. We kept some of the meat for ourselves and some of it we sold.’
Louis tells how scared he was to walk through the wild mountain world so young. Especially in the dark. It was life-threatening moreover. Not even because of the customs officers who hunted the smugglers – they even shot them in the process – but mainly because of the unpredictable nature. Think avalanches, rock slides, landslides, severe weather.
“It was life-threatening. Think avalanches, rockfalls, landslides “
As poor as the region was then, of course, it is no longer. Winter tourism in particular brought prosperity from the 1970s and 1980s. Hotels were built, restaurants opened, elevators installed and slopes built. Since the opening of the Les Portes du Soleil ski area, located in both Switzerland and France, hundreds of millions have been invested, accounting for 600 kilometers of slopes spread across eight villages on both sides of the border.
I had started the day on an easy chairlift from Morgins. Normally that ride has a spectacular ending with the peaks of the Dents du Midi slowly appearing. But these had still shrouded themselves in fog. Then it was nice to warm up on the slopes around the Alpage La Chaux, an alm (alp say the Swiss) with a chalet built in 1871. Homemade honey, jams and génépi are sold.
The fresh snow of the past few days has done the high altitude slopes well. Lovely skiing to Champoussin with its chalets and Les Crosets, at 1,660 meters the highest ski village on the Swiss side of the ski area. The mountain station of Pointe des Mossettes (2,277 meters) is right on the border. Up in Switzerland, down in France. Carefree. Unlike the smugglers, we do not have to pay attention to exactly which country we are in.
Plus, it’s a lot faster with lifts and on skis. An experienced smuggler took hours to traverse the nearly 1,000 vertical meters. The skier peaked that in less than half an hour. Unless stopping at one of the mountain restaurants, such as the contemporary Cookie Café at Pointe des Mossettes. With exceptionally good coffee, not so obvious at this altitude.
Then suddenly, slowly, one by one, the seven peaks of Les Dents du Midi emerge from the clouds. First only the Haute Cime (3,258 m), then the Les Doigts de Champéry (3,200 m), Dent Jaune (3,186 m) and Eperon (3,114 m). They pierce through the passing raging clouds to all mist when the curtain of a theater is raised and the big star stands in the middle of the stage. The massif looks robust and marks the end of the valley. Here the world ends and the no man’s land between heaven and earth begins.
I want to descend to Champéry and take the long route outside: Ripaille Grand-Paradis. And that’s what it is, a paradise. The slope is rather out of direction and at the edge of the ski area. Especially if you are coming from Morgins or one of the French stations. So it is peaceful and quiet there. The descent is more than ten kilometers long and follows an ancient pilgrimage and trade route. Loved for transporting cheese, milk and the word of God.
Although it is not in any book, it is sometimes thought out loud: without the smuggling past, the Swiss-French ski resort – a revolutionary collaboration at the time – would never have come about
Smugglers also liked this road because it offered plenty of shelter. Thanks to the trees and boulders on the upper part, they were able to walk unseen to the Col de Cou. And from this nearly 1,921-meter high pass descend into France. Sometimes to an appointed spot on an alp, sometimes to remote farms or a village such as Morzine.
The heyday of smuggling was between 1920 and 1960. At that time, friendships developed between smugglers on both sides of the border. Under difficult circumstances, you get to know each other well. Although it is not in any book, it is sometimes thought aloud: without the smuggling past, the Swiss-French ski resort – a revolutionary collaboration at the time – would never have come about. It took confidence to do that. And that was exactly what the smuggling families had built up with each other
The route ends in Champéry which faces the sun. Park skis and walk down Rue du Village, the main street with its old and new chalets. The place is casual. The creperie sits next to an exclusive interior design store, a classic fondue restaurant next to a concept store or take At’Home, a hybrid café, bar, restaurant, club. According to the mood and the time.
Once upon a time the Grand Hôtel Pension de la Dent du Midi (1857), with a Belle Époque-style dépendance, stood here. It was one of the village’s two first hotels. After World War II, it was demolished. Only the dépendance that had been converted into l’Hôtel National in 1896 remained. Today it has a beautiful veranda and a fine spa accessible to all.
At the foot of the village, which is built on a slope, is the large gondola back up the hill. Former smuggler Perrin remembers when the first elevator was built in the 1930s: “The steel cables were all over the village.
Back at the ski area, I make a big lap. With 600 kilometers of slopes, opportunities abound. Deep into France
Going uphill, we see on the left the Dents du Midi, the mountain range that gave its name to the region. By the way, it is not the name of a geographical entity, but of a tourist cooperation of six charming Swiss villages in the border region: Champéry, Champoussin, Les Crosets, Morgins, Troistorrents and Val-d’Illiez.
Back at the ski area, I make a big lap. With 600 kilometers of slopes, opportunities abound. Deep into France. The route takes me via Châtel, where a smuggling museum is set up in the former customs post, back to starting point Morgins. No stomping après-ski but a relaxed atmosphere on terraces in the sun. Skiers, hikers, snowshoers. Everything is convivially mixed together.
I met with Raphy Guérin, a seventy-something from a family of smugglers. He brought with him a bag full of memories of that time such as photos that give an impression of the border situation and a somewhat curious passport: “Thanks to his work in the mountains, my father had a special carnet that allowed him to walk freely through the border area. He made grateful use of that…
The Guérin family’s alpine farm was known among the Montagnards as a place to eat and drink. Customs officials also came there often, so Father Guérin always had the correct and most up-to-date information. “For example, he knew exactly when there was a change of customs officers and no checks were being run.
The Guérin family’s alpine farm was known among the Montagnards as a place to eat and drink. Customs officials also came there often, so Father Guérin always had the correct and most up-to-date information
As night falls, the calm adds to it. While a blanket of silence lies over Morgins, I take a walk to a higher vantage point. With a light on my head, I’m in no hurry. All the time. This is about the time the smugglers went into the mountains. The darker it would get, the better.
Once at altitude, I find a spot with a view of Morgins in the valley and the mighty mountain world above. I try to recognize the smuggling passes: Pointe des Mossettes, Pas de Chavanette and beyond that must be the Col de Cou. I’m thinking of Louis Perrin. How he was sent into the hostile mountains as a 10-year-old boy with contraband on his back.
On the horizon, the Dents du Midi stand like black outlines in a dark purple sky. Illuminated by the moon, twinkling framed by stars.
I’m thinking of Louis Perrin. How as a 10-year-old boy he was sent into the hostile mountains with contraband on his back
Authentic winter in Region Dents du Midi
Region Dents du Midi
Looking for a winter destination where a mountain world full of stories is combined with authenticity? Then Region Dents du Midi is the answer. And besides great skiing, you can snowshoe, wellness and eat and drink more than good food.