Column
A Deep Dive into Al-Quds
"Layer upon layer, the meandering streets are built up. And beneath those architectural layers of bricks lie at least as many stories" No city is more layered in its layeredness than the Old City in East Jerusalem. The Romans, Byzantines, Mamluk, Crusaders,...
Between the sacred and the everyday
Old City Jerusalem
Visiting Al Quds, as the Palestinians call the Holy City of Jerusalem, you live by the rhythm of the Adhan, the muezzin's call for the Muslims to pray and the chiming of the church bells. Join Javier Gonzalez while he explores the flagstone streets of...
Tickle your tastebuds with Palestinian food
Savouring East Jerusalem
Kunafa and hummus. Falafel and Lahmacun. Sweet and savoury with a dash of umami but always delicious. The Old City of East Jerusalem is a feast of flavours and anecdotes. Gastronomy is a genuine reflection of a city’s soul. Join the dance that our tastebuds had on...
Inside Al-Haram Al-Sharif, East Jerusalem
The Noble Sanctuary
On a plateau on Jerusalem's highest spot, you will find Al-Haram Al-Sharif, the Noble Sanctuary. A place sacred to all three monotheistic religions but only accessible to Muslims. And ok, for once, for us too. The boy sitting in the Well of Souls corner seems a bit...
Valley of the Shadow of Death
Hiking in Wadi Qelt
Wadi Qelt, located between Jerusalem and Jericho, is widely identified as the place called the Valley of the Shadow of Death in the Bible. Sound sinister? All the more reason for editor-in-chief Marco Barneveld to take a walk there. As a baptized atheist with a...
Bethlehem Fair Trade Artisans
For the love of humanity
Fair trade association Bethlehem Fair Trade Artists (BFTA) promotes and celebrates Palestinian culture and traditions. They also ensure that their artists are paid a fair amount for their efforts. It’s an endeavor we can only love and embrace. We hope you will too...
Nine Palestinians about their heritage
Multicultural East Jerusalem
The media usually talks about ‘the Palestinians’ as if they were a mono-cultural unit. Nothing could be further from the truth. The Palestinian community has a wealth of cultures, with roots in diverse regions, from Africa to Armenia and even India. Nine portraits...
Roaming the ruins of the Nakba
Sataf & Lifta
In the hills of East Jerusalem stand silent stone witnesses to what Palestinians call the Nakba, the Disaster. What took place here? And why do many Palestinians wear old keys around their necks? Among the flowers and trees, on ancient, man-made terraces, stand the...
The Bedouins of El-Bariyah Al Quds
Jerusalem Wilderness
In the hinterland of Jerusalem, you will find a breathtaking semi-desert full of ochre-colored mountains, plunging cliffs, and green oases. El-Bariyah Al Quds, or the Wilderness of Jerusalem. We went to visit the Bedouins who still live here. Startling goat eyes...
For the sake of peace
Church of the Holy Sepulchre
Eloquent chants sound from one corner, the murmur of prayer from another. Priests and their followers walk in procession through the space, which is filled with the scent of incense. Everywhere I look, there is movement, everywhere there are the colors of religious...
