Wonders of the Chilean Atacama Desert
The Driest Place on Earth
With its otherworldly lunar landscapes, salt flats, bubbling and erupting geysers, hot rivers, and lush oases, the Atacama Desert is a destination unlike anything you’ve ever seen. It is a world of its own, where extreme natural phenomena and breathtaking beauty go hand in hand.
The late afternoon sun casts long shadows over the rugged landscape of the Atacama Desert, turning the jagged cliffs and rolling dunes of the Moon Valley a deep vermillion red. An hour ago, we set out on horseback from the Explora Atacama resort in San Pedro de Atacama. Our guide Fernanda Donoso, a desert expert, leads the way. The rear of her horse sways rhythmically as my noble steed steadily follows through the surreal landscape. The only sound around us is the scraping of hooves on the barren ground.
The ground is cracked from dryness, hard and unforgiving, like the skin of an ancient giant that has slept for centuries under the burning sun
Ancient Giant
The Atacama Desert, an endless sea of rusty hues, stretches out like a sunken dream beneath a sky that rarely sheds tears. From the rugged Pacific coast to deep within the Andes, this vast, arid landscape in northern Chile seems frozen in time. A place where even the wind seems to move cautiously during the day, as if not to disturb the fragile calm. Or perhaps it’s just too hot here, even for the wind. The ground is cracked from dryness, hard and unforgiving, like the skin of an ancient giant that has slept for centuries under the burning sun.
Some say the region’s name comes from the tacama, the Quechua name for a black bird with a white chest, native to both Chile and the Peruvian coast. Other theories point to Kunza, the ancient language of the Atacameños, suggesting the old peoples called their land ‘Atchamar’.
The contrast between the intense sun and the cool nighttime winds paints a magical landscape, as if the desert breathes with the coming of the day
Dry
At sunrise, when the first rays of light touch the Andes mountains, the sand dunes and rock formations are bathed in a palette of red, orange, and gold. The contrast between the intense sun and the cool nighttime winds paints a magical landscape, as if the desert breathes with the coming of the day. ‘Sometimes, after rare rain showers, small colourful flowers bloom for just a few days,’ says Fernanda. And rare they are – rainfall ranges from 3 to 15 millimetres per year. For comparison, in the UK, about 800-1400 millimetres falls annually. There are places in this desert where no rain ever falls, and where no life exists. This is the Atacama: a place where life learns to survive with less.
The Moon Valley (Valle de la Luna), named for its lunar appearance, truly looks like another planet. Towering, tooth-like formations, dunes shaped by the wind, and dry, cracked ground create a scene so unreal that I question whether this is Earth. As we ride deeper into the valley, Fernanda explains, ‘The rock formations here were shaped by millions of years of wind and rain, slowly carving the landscape into what you see now.’
Salt
Geologically speaking, the Atacama Desert is a living museum. This region was formed by tectonic movements, volcanic activity, and erosion over millions of years.
The Salar de Atacama, the largest salt plain in Chile, is a blindingly white landscape that stretches to the horizon. Riding across the salt flat feels like traversing an endless sea of salt. ‘This flat was once a large lake, but now it’s one of the driest places on Earth,’ says Fernanda. ‘The salt plains are the remnants of ancient lakes that evaporated under the blazing sun. That’s why the salt content is so high – even freshwater contains salts.’
Despite the seemingly harsh conditions, life thrives here. Flamingos, with their pink feathers, wade gracefully through shallow salt ponds, searching for microscopic algae and brine shrimp. ‘Animals here are masters of survival,’ Fernanda explains. ‘Flamingos have special glands to filter the salt from the water they drink,’ she says, as the birds continue happily sipping the salty water while hunting for shrimp.
‘You can always feel the presence of the volcano, like a silent guardian over the land,’ Fernanda says, pointing to the snow-capped peak towering over the town
San Pedro de Atacama
The Cordillera de la Sal, a range of salt mountains, forms the backbone of the desert. This mountain ridge is largely made of rock salt, formed around 23 million years ago through evaporation, with the layers of salt later compressed and uplifted by tectonic forces into the mountain range we see today.
Our lodge, Explora Atacama, is located in the oasis of San Pedro de Atacama, in the beautiful Ayllu de Larache, once inhabited by ancient Atacameño families. San Pedro de Atacama, the capital of this desert, is a small cultural oasis in the middle of the desert and the perfect base for any traveller. With its charming adobe houses and narrow streets, it feels like time slows down here. But the town’s vibrancy stems from its rich history. ‘San Pedro was once an important stop on the trade routes of the Indigenous Peoples,’ Fernanda tells us as we walk down the main street, passing cafés and shops filled with handmade jewellery and textiles.
The town is also the gateway to some of the region’s most spectacular natural wonders, including the Tatio geysers and the Licancabur volcano. ‘You can always feel the presence of the volcano, like a silent guardian over the land,’ Fernanda says, pointing to the snow-capped peak towering over the town.
Dance of Fire and Steam
At first light, we reach the geyser field of El Tatio, situated at an awe-inspiring altitude of 4,320 metres. El Tatio is a geothermal field where dozens of geysers can be seen. It is the third-largest geyser field in the world (after Yellowstone NP (VS) and the Valley of Geysers in Kamchatka (Russia)) and the largest in the Southern Hemisphere. The air is sharp and icy, but the landscape is transformed by the rising plumes of steam escaping from the earth. All around us, eighty geysers spew boiling water metres into the air, a powerful display of Mother Earth’s raw energy.
All around us, eighty geysers spew boiling water metres into the air, a powerful display of Mother Earth’s raw energy
Guardians of the Desert
Despite its harshness, the Atacama has long been home to the Indigenous Atacameño (or Lickanantay, in Kunza) Peoples. The Atacami culture, as the early Spanish explorers called it, is thought to have emerged around 500 BC when the first agricultural settlements began to develop around the Atacama region.
They have developed a deep connection to this land and know exactly where to find hidden water sources. ‘The Atacameños regard the desert as a living being that must be respected,’ says Fernanda. She explains how the Indigenous people practised agriculture in small oases centuries ago, herding llamas to sustain themselves.
Growing quinoa and corn in these dry conditions was a feat of sheer ingenuity, with smart irrigation systems ensuring that the scarce water was used to its fullest. ‘They knew that if you don’t respect the desert, it can take everything from you. That’s why they performed rituals and ceremonies to honour the land,’ adds Fernanda.
The first European explorers to reach what is now known as the Atacama Desert were drawn by tales, of course, of a land rich in gold, somewhere south of the Inca Empire. It was during this search that the Spanish conquistador, Diego de Almagro, after a perilous journey through the Andes, became the first European adventurer to set foot in the vastness of Atacama.
The first European explorers to reach the Atacama Desert were drawn by tales, of course, of a land rich in gold
Rio Blanco
After visiting the El Tatio geysers, it’s quite a climb to cross the ridge of the mountain. Oxygen is a rare commodity here. Then we slowly zigzag over the stones down to a special stream: the Rio Blanco. This stream, with its warm thermal waters, seems almost magical. Steam rises from the water as we walk along the banks, surrounded by mosses, grasses, cacti, and shrubs. Lovely and surreal. ‘Water is life, even when it’s boiling. It cools off on its own,’ laughs Fernanda.
After following the stream for about two hours, we arrive at a spot where the water is at the perfect temperature, about forty degrees Celsius, I estimate. A small waterfall creates bubbles in the pool below. I have to get in! Within seconds, I’ve stripped off my clothes and step into the delightful hot water. ‘The water here has healing powers. The minerals, like sulphur and magnesium, have been used for centuries by the local people to relieve things like fatigue,’ explains Fernanda. I dip my head under the foaming bubbles. Feels like heaven.
Vicuñas, elegant and slender relatives of the llama, move gracefully along the banks of the Rio Blanco
Vicuñas
Despite the dryness, the Atacama has its inhabitants. Vicuñas, elegant and slender relatives of the llama, move gracefully along the banks of the Rio Blanco, chewing on the sparse blades of grass. Their coat is thin but fine, protecting them from the cold nights. A little later, another strange creature hops over the rocks. A viscacha, a rodent that looks like a cross between a rabbit and a squirrel, nimbly jumps from rock to rock. With its thick tail, it wraps itself against the cool wind when resting on a rocky lookout point. In the sky, the majestic Andean condor circles overhead.
Could it be the same Andean condor I saw earlier soaring above us as my horse searched for footing on the loose stones of the Moon Valley? If so, the majestic bird doesn’t have much confidence in my survival, as the Andean condor mostly feeds on dead animals. ‘Don’t worry,’ laughs desert expert Fernanda. ‘As long as you follow me, everything will be fine.’ And I follow. The Atacama Desert is not a place to be stubborn.
Choose the planet, choose Explora
For thirty plus years, B Corp certified Explora has been travelling through the most remote corners and most pristine natural environments of the South American continent. The love they have for these places, including the Conservation Reserve in Torres del Paine and the Puritama Conservation Reserve in the Puritama River Valley in the Atacama Desert, resulted in a strong desire to protect them.
Committed to preserving biodiversity, Explora actively engages in projects that protect ecosystems while offering unique travel experiences. Their initiatives focus on educating travellers about the importance of conservation and the delicate balance of nature.
One significant aspect of Explora’s work is collaborating with local communities to promote sustainable practices that benefit both people and wildlife. This includes supporting local conservation programs, reforestation efforts, and wildlife protection initiatives. By involving local guides and experts, Explora ensures that travellers gain authentic insights into the regions they explore.
Additionally, Explora invests in eco-friendly infrastructure, minimising their environmental footprint. Their lodges are designed with sustainability in mind, utilising renewable energy sources and sustainable materials. This commitment helps to protect the natural surroundings while providing guests with a comfortable and immersive experience.
Explora collaborates with local communities to promote sustainable practices that benefit both people and wildlife
Discover the Atacama Desert with Explora
Explora is truly wonderful. Not the cheapest, but perhaps the very best if you love to immerse yourself in nature, are fond of adventure, and have a heart for our beautiful planet. With carefully designed lodges in remote areas, from the Atacama Desert to Patagonia, Rapa Nui, Peru, and Bolivia, and expeditions in Tierra del Fuego, Sacred Valley and soon Iceland, Explora offers profound explorations of pristine nature and local cultures.