The Magic of Winter in Austria
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The magic of the Austrian winter reveals itself in many forms. From the thrill of gliding down powdery slopes to the pleasure of savouring regional delicacies in cosy restaurants. If one thing sets Austria’s westernmost winter destination Vorarlberg apart, it’s a focus on sustainability and a deep appreciation for natural resources and local culture.
Winter in Austria is more than just a season; it’s a magical spectacle. To experience this firsthand, we travelled to the far west of the country, exploring the diversity of the Kleinwalsertal, the unique architecture of Bregenzerwald, and the extensive slopes of Ski Arlberg. Each experience is infused with authenticity and a respect for the environment.
Join us on a journey through tales of Pyrenean bandits, feminist mystic nuns of the Late Middle Ages, architect-designed bus stops, and villages deeply committed to sustainability. And, of course, skiing—lots of it! After all, we are in Austria!
Kleinwalsertal: An Alpine Oasis
It’s Saturday, and the church bells ring in the picturesque village of Riezlern, nestled in the remote alpine valley of Kleinwalsertal in northern Austria. We’re here to learn about the local community’s initiative, Natur bewusst erleben (Experience Nature Consciously). ‘We want to teach visitors not only to enjoy the beauty of the mountains but also to understand the broader picture of mountain life,’ says our local guide, Herbert Edlinger, as we walk along the StraussBegweg trail outside the village, amid snowy meadows and farms.
‘This is a small valley with great nature. We can boast a fascinating mountain landscape and unique biodiversity,’ Herbert tells us, pausing to sample the delicious local sausages. ‘We certainly want to promote nature tourism, but we also aim to educate visitors about the importance of preserving the alpine environment.’
Here, local farmers find tourism an opportunity to supplement their income, switching between tourism jobs in winter and livestock care in summer. ‘Though they don’t get rich,’ Herbert adds, ‘it allows them to live comfortably and maintain their traditions.’
The charm of Riezlern extends beyond its green valleys and snowy peaks. Offerings that combine contemporary hotels with traditional style, organic cuisine, and cultural activities invite visitors to immerse themselves in a unique experience where nature, tradition, and tourism harmoniously intertwine. The village also offers activities for every taste, from thrilling days of ski touring to relaxing snowshoeing.
Gottesacker Plateau: a winter Paradise
It’s Sunday, and the parking lot at the Ifen Valley station is packed with cars. The sunny day invites us to enjoy the mountains and snow, so we plan to snowshoe across the Gottesacker Plateau.
The protected Gottesacker Plateau is Austria and Germany’s most important karst landscape. It features a wide variety of rock formations and rare plant species, and is over one hundred million years old. Although it is accessible only in summer with proper equipment, favourable weather, mountain experience, and preferably a guide, a marked five kilometre hiking route traverses the landscape in winter.
A new gondola takes us quickly up to the starting point of our route. Many backcountry skiers prepare their gear as we do the same with our snowshoes. ‘This is a paradise for mountain skiing and freeriding,’ our guide, Stefan Perraud, tells us. ‘And the plateau is also great for snowshoeing, as long as you stay on the marked route.’ We trek across the spring-like snow, a mix of powder, crust, and hardpack, until we reach the first summit cross, which crowns a peak overlooking the German plains and the Austrian mountains of the valley, all over 2,500 metres high.
‘This is a paradise for mountain skiing and freeriding’
‘With the construction of the gondola, the number of visitors has grown considerably, and previously, visitors were more experienced mountaineers,’ Stefan says as we discuss the challenges of managing protected ecosystems with the increased visitor flow brought by the gondola. ‘Now, there’s more information for people and an effort to educate them on mountain and ecological issues, which is also part of the Natur bewusst erleben initiative. By the way, Stefan, where does your last name come from?’
‘I’m not sure,’ he replies, ‘but I think I come from a family of bandits from the Pyrenees.’
Ski Arlberg: For Lovers of Ski and Gourmet Food
We move to the Bregenzerwald region, where a day of skiing awaits us at one of Austria’s best ski resorts—and therefore one of the best in the world! Ski Arlberg is Austria’s largest contiguous ski area, boasting three hundred kilometres of connected slopes. Our ski experience begins in Warth-Schröcken, where we can already put on our skis and enjoy a variety of runs. Additionally, by taking the Auenfeldjet gondola, we can access the Lech Zürs am Arlberg ski resort, one of Austria’s most exclusive destinations, known not only for its slopes of all levels but also for its state-of-the-art lifts, cosy mountain restaurants, and stunning viewpoints.
Lech Resort not only satisfies the desires of ski lovers but also caters to gourmet palates. We experience this firsthand with lunch at the restaurant of Europe’s best vegetarian chef, Paul Ivic, at the Hotel Edelweiss in Zürs. And what views! To end the day, we visit Skyspace Lech, a walkable art installation by renowned American artist James Turrell, adding an artistic touch to our ski day.
‘Agriculture, livestock farming, and craftsmanship haven’t disappeared in our valley, unlike elsewhere. And we’re very proud of that’
Bregenzerwald : Full of Life
‘The beauty of this valley is not only in the landscape but also in the culture,’ retired teacher and now local guide Luis Bär tells me. The way the people of Bregenzerwald interact with their environment is the theme of specially marked trails that cross the region’s villages. Bells ring as we stroll through the village, where contemporary hotels share space with traditional guesthouses, farmhouses, and farms filled with animals.
‘This valley has a mix of German and western Swiss villages, evident in the different customs and dialects,’ Luis says. The lively local life in the streets and shops stands out compared to other valleys and mountain villages. ‘There is no valley where the birth rate is declining, and that’s thanks to tourism, let’s be honest,’ he adds. ‘But agriculture, livestock farming, and craftsmanship haven’t disappeared in our valley, unlike elsewhere. And we’re very proud of that.’
From Farm to Fork
‘The food around us is the best for our bodies.’ It’s a maxim from the famous mystic nun Hildegard von Bingen, considered one of the Late Middle Ages’ most influential, multifaceted, and fascinating personalities. ‘My grandmother borrowed that concept and gave it a twist,’ says Emanuel Moosbrugger, our host at the Biohotel Schwanen restaurant in the village of Bizau. ‘Our entire menu is based on strictly seasonal, organic ingredients—even the wines.’
Interestingly, the hotel, which isn’t listed on major booking platforms, is as successful as the restaurant. ‘It’s a particular product, not made for everyone, and it surprisingly attracts a very well-educated clientele,’ Emanuel explains as we’re served dessert. ‘We know we’re doing something right: sixty percent of our customers return.’
And so it is. After our experience in the area, we know one thing for sure: sooner or later, we’ll be back to experience the magic of the Austrian winter.
‘The food around us is the best for our bodies.’
It’s a maxim from the famous mystic nun Hildegard von Bingen, considered one of the Late Middle Ages’ most influential, multifaceted, and fascinating personalities
Holidays in Vorarlberg
Dashing downhill, rambling through the snow, enjoying delicious treats, discovering cities and villages, and exploring museums and exhibitions—discover the Vorarlberg region! Explore a variety of outstanding experiences and plan your holiday alone, as a couple, with your family, or with friends on the official tourist website.