Indulge in Austria’s Culinary Capital
Graz, a Styrian Delight
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Gastronomy, history, architecture, museums: in Graz, the second-largest city in Austria and the culinary capital of the country, you’ll find the largest, still-existing medieval town centre in Europe, as well as cool emerging neighbourhoods brimming with free-thinking creatives and unique shops. And everywhere, delicious food and drinks await. Those who wish to indulge should head to Graz.
Chef Michael Wankerl has travelled the world. He worked in Australia, lived in Asia, and had a grand castle for hosting events. Now, he is living his dream in Austria’s second city: Graz. In a small restaurant with a kitchen measuring just eight square metres, he cooks exclusively plant-based dishes.
‘We live in the promised land,’ says Michael. ‘The land around the city is rich and generous. We don’t need to import anything from abroad, except perhaps some specific herbs. In the past, people managed perfectly well without avocados and exotic fruits. There are so many wonderful local products available nearby, in every season. And you can have great fun experimenting with them.’
Michael rattles off examples. Pumpkin seed oil instead of butter, melon with the texture of tuna, sushi sauce made from fermented vine leaves, and sunflowers as a tasty alternative to artichokes. ‘Complicated? Not at all. It’s fun to try new things, especially when they work out. Chefs are not rock stars; we simply need to provide our guests with a lovely evening.’
Initially, Michael worked with his own pigs and cows to ensure high-quality meat on the plate. ‘But I quickly stopped that,’ he says. ‘You don’t need meat to cook gastronomically. That’s just a notion we have in our heads. I soon transitioned to a completely plant-based approach, which is good for the earth, good for animals, and good for people.’
Michael loves sharing his secrets and experiences of plant-based cooking with his guests. He doesn’t believe in pointing fingers. ‘That doesn’t work at home, at school, or anywhere. You have to inspire others, get them excited!’
Free Thinkers
The chef is by no means the only free thinker in Graz. The city proves to be a fertile ground for those who want to do things differently. Not by adhering to strict lines, but through enjoyment and a sense of ease. It has produced celebrities like Lena Hoschek, the fashion designer who has brought the traditional dirndl dress into the 21st century. Her creations are worn by stars such as Lana Del Rey, Katy Perry, and Sarah Jessica Parker.
Perhaps it has to do with the city’s history and its long-standing isolated position on the edge of Austria and the free West. After the fall of the Iron Curtain, Graz suddenly found itself in the heart of Europe, with new opportunities, fresh energy, and renewed focus. Young people no longer needed to leave the city to achieve their dreams.
After the fall of the Iron Curtain, Graz suddenly found itself in the heart of Europe, with new opportunities, fresh energy, and renewed focus
On the Franziskanerplatz, I enjoy coffee at Coffee Ride, an idea from Eva Berghofer. She loves cycling, coffee, and chatting. She has brought these passions together in this space. Without any experience in the hospitality industry, but with a talent for disarming hospitality, she serves a handful of guests next to the sign that reads, ‘Sex sells, but I sell coffee,’ while cyclists immediately share their experiences with one another.
‘Every Sunday, I organise a coffee ride, a cycling tour,’ Eva explains as she prepares a cortado. ‘There’s a route for beginners and one for experienced cyclists. It brings people together, and I think that’s wonderful.’
Stunning
At the end of the day, I climb the Schlossberg for a classic: the sunset. The stairs lead almost straight up from the old town. At the top, the clock tower, the symbol of the city, awaits, along with the view over the red rooftops, with the mountains just behind. The viewpoint is shared by tourists on a selfie hunt, couples in love, friends, seekers of peace, and old acquaintances, all equipped with a bottle of wine, a poke bowl, or a good book.
The striking roof of the modern Kunsthaus—a kind of whale adorned with lights—breaks the classical skyline of church towers, domes, and red roofs. ‘A disgrace,’ thought conservative Graz when it was built in 2003. ‘Stunning,’ said the progressive part.
It gave Graz a boost, courage, and audacity. In what was once a bourgeois city, a stream of novelties emerged that continues to this day. New clubs, artworks, daring hotels, art galleries, design studios… One moment you’re gazing at ornate baroque and rococo facades, and the next, you’re sipping a sleek espresso in a bar that could just as easily be in the trendiest neighbourhoods of Milan or New York.
One moment you’re gazing at ornate baroque and rococo facades, and the next, you’re sipping a sleek espresso in a bar that could just as easily be in the trendiest neighbourhoods of Milan
I wander through Jakomini, a compact district with unique little shops, stroll past the classical city palaces on Sackstrasse, visit the rooftop terrace of the K&O department store, and walk towards Lend, the former red-light district that is now on the rise.
A former top chef runs a hamburger stall there, the Haarschneiderei is a vintage hair salon, and at tag.werk, you can find the most delightful and sustainable souvenir from Graz: a bag or backpack made by young people struggling to find their way in society.
‘It all started from a night shelter for homeless youth,’ explains project leader Tanja Tiefenbacher. ‘The problem was that they had nothing to do during the day. Here, they find structure, earn money, and can learn something. Moreover, it’s very fulfilling to create a beautiful bag: ‘I can do something.’’
Michi Eisner is the designer of almost all the bags and backpacks. ‘I started here by chance and never left. It’s rewarding work, and I enjoy the contact with the young people. Coming up with ideas for tag.werk is challenging. Unskilled workers need to be able to create something from waste or leftover materials within a day.’
Like most people at tag.werk, Michi is modest. ‘No, I’m not one to boast about myself. But sometimes I walk through the city and see all those people with one of our bags. That gives me a good feeling.’
Naturally Sustainable
As the second largest city in Austria, Graz is inherently sustainable. Nature is close at hand and permeates the city centre. Nearly sixty percent of the city is green. There is plenty of space for cycling, hydrogen buses operate on the streets, and sustainable initiatives are everywhere—from second-hand clothing and social projects to farm-to-table restaurants. Sustainability feels natural in Graz.
Dancefloor at the Square
Not too long ago, Lend was a shabby neighbourhood associated with prostitution, drugs, and dubious bars. If you look closely, you can still see remnants, like the awning with the poorly spelled ‘Nigth-Club’ from the former Baccara brothel. Now, it’s primarily a quirky spot in a trendy area, with Lendplatz as a beloved meeting point for locals and visitors. In the mornings, the daily farmers’ market takes place here, and by late afternoon, the terraces buzz in the last rays of the sun.
I find a spot at a table and order a large glass of Puntigamer, the city’s beer. Music comes from various directions, merging into the soundtrack of a sultry summer evening. Around me, I recognise faces from earlier in the day. I listen to the chatter and laughter of friends, see a lonely lady retreat into her phone, and watch to see if the street musician nearby receives any tips.
Not too long ago, Lend was a shabby neighbourhood associated with prostitution, drugs, and dubious bars
On the other side of the square, the dance night has begun. Every Wednesday evening during summer, hips sway to Latin American live music. It’s a beautiful mix of beginners, semi-professionals, and everything in between. I see high heels and hiking boots moving across the dance floor.
Lend has always been the ‘free’ and ‘accessible’ part of the city, never enclosed within the city walls. In the 18th and 19th centuries, major thoroughfares passed through the district, which also fostered a more open outlook on the world, as travellers brought new insights and ideas with them.
As I walk back to my hotel, I notice that the lower quay along the swiftly flowing Mur has transformed into a club. Beats rise to the starry sky.
Vegetable Garden
No matter how urban Graz feels, the countryside is close by. You can see it at the farmers’ market, in the restaurants, and in the shops. This isn’t a surprise: just half an hour’s drive from the centre, you’ll find vineyards, fields, greenhouses, fruit trees, and the farm of the Berghofer family, which specializes in pumpkin seeds. All from their own land and local farmers.
‘The pumpkin seed oil – Steirisches Kürbiskernöl – has really become famous over the last few decades,’ says Josef Berghofer as he shows me around the business. ‘We’ve also focused on a niche: roasted seeds coated in chocolate, available in various flavours.’
Surrounding Graz are many agricultural businesses with wonderful products. This is one reason the city is officially the ‘Genuss Hauptstadt’ (Capital of Culinary Delights) of Austria, now also boasting excellent wines. Bernhard Kremser took over his father’s estate and aims for even higher quality.
‘The wine scandal in the 1980s (where poor-quality alcohol was added to wine and wines were artificially sweetened) turned out to be a blessing in disguise,’ he says on the terrace of his Buschenschank, a place where wine and simple dishes are served. ‘A new direction was needed—quality over quantity. We now have award-winning white wines in the region, and the Schilcher has become something special. Although the production is different, you could call it our rosé.’
‘You must try this, chilled to 15 degrees. Man, oh man, it’s so good!’
In between chatting, Bernard, dressed in lederhosen and a black T-shirt, serves honest fare on the terrace and shows me the cellar because we need to taste: a Blauburgunder, Sauvignon Blanc, variations aged in Austrian and French oak. ‘You must try this, chilled to 15 degrees. Man, oh man, it’s so good!’
When Bernard has to return to his customers on the terrace, I’m back in Graz in twenty minutes, a city that embraces novelties but also cherishes the beautiful things from its past. Like the Cathedral, the Opera, the Gemaltes Haus, and the Landhaus, which has Venetian features thanks to the Italian master builder Domenico dell’Allio. I take one last stroll through the old town before heading to enjoy mezze in a courtyard in Lend. At the table next to me, two friends sit with bags from tag.werk hanging from their chairs.
10 Must-Sees and More
Immerse yourself in a city that feels more southern than any other in Austria. Life moves at a slightly slower pace here, with a bit more flair. Enjoying an aperitif is one of the daily highlights, whether at the trendy Lendplatz or at a classic like Frankowitsch, established in 1932.