Indulge in an Elegant and Sassy City
Lucerne City Trip
A classic city centre brimming with history, stately palaces, unique museums, and ancient murals, alongside a new district filled with shops selling vinyl records, bold art studios, and independent fashion boutiques: in Lucerne, you can relax on a sauna boat, attend concerts in a former swimming pool, enjoy delicious vegan and traditional cuisine in trendy restaurants, or settle down on one of the many terraces for a glass of wine with a view of the snow-capped peaks.
The sauna boat floats in the grey mist. The stove is lit, and somewhere in the fog, a ferry passes by. The sound of the ship’s horn echoes hollowly across the lake. The outline of the vessel hovers in a no-man’s-land between water and sky. Slowly. Just as everything today seems to be in blissful slow motion.
Once the sauna is up to temperature, I anchor in a bay outside Lucerne. From the chilly outside air—where the helm is located—into the warmth. It feels wonderful. The sauna has windows with panoramic views. Occasionally, an opening in the clouds reveals the snow-covered mountain peaks.
Lucerne was the first Swiss city to have a sauna boat, an idea from three friends: Andreas, Samuel, and Stella. ‘We saw a boat like this in Scandinavia and were immediately sold,’ says Stella. ‘It fits perfectly with Lucerne and Lake Lucerne. In just fifteen minutes from the city, you can completely unwind.’
The group of friends now has four sauna boats, all named after the grandmothers of the creators. My boat is called Berti. And in the cabin, it’s starting to get quite hot. I lazily sway on the lake until the hourglass is full. Time to cool off—with water I scoop directly from Lake Lucerne using a large ladle. The brave can take a plunge, but I prefer to cool down gradually. Then it’s time for the bathrobe.
The sauna boat is the perfect way to end a lovely day, or, as I prefer, a refreshing start. After a few delightful hours on the water, the bus takes me back to the city for lunch. I disembark in Neustadt, Lucerne’s alternative, creative district. This area looks different from the elegant centre with its palatial buildings, arcades, and ancient murals.
In the permanently empty pool, concerts are held, the slides serve merely as decoration, and in the shower area, a photocopier still clings to the wall beneath the spray heads
A District Full of New Energy
Neustadt has a different history, one that is still being written. Take Neubad, a former swimming pool that has transformed into a cultural centre featuring studios, media, and art. In the permanently empty pool, concerts are held, the slides serve merely as decoration, and in the shower area, a photocopier still clings to the wall beneath the spray heads.
Wandering through Neustadt, the façades are mostly straightforward, built as efficient living spaces. Uninspired? Perhaps. But the district is functional and bursting with new energy. I pass shops selling vinyl records, studios showcasing bold art, independent fashion boutiques, an instrument maker, a budget supermarket, and several trendy restaurants and bars, along with a charming thrift shop and squares where you can sit back and soak in the atmosphere.
Tonight, I’ll return to dine at Bayts, an initiative by Nadine and Coco, two friends who serve plant-based dishes with an eye for sustainable production. They offer a small but exquisite menu. Afterward, it’s off to Schüür, the Paradiso of Lucerne, for the music scene—but more on that later.
Wandering Through the Historic City Centre
The alternative Neustadt seamlessly transitions into the beloved historic city centre of Lucerne, a draw for international visitors. Suddenly, I find myself by the Reuss River, passing the two mediaeval covered wooden bridges. The oldest and most monumental—Kapellbrücke, dating back to 1365—along with the water tower, stands as the city’s symbol. A fire in the 1990s nearly reduced the bridge to ashes, and charred wood still bears witness to that disaster.
The ceilings of the bridges are adorned with beautifully painted panels. They resemble comic strips depicting faith and history. In the Middle Ages, most residents could not read, so these served as a cross between a book and social media. The finest panels come from another dismantled bridge. The more weathered and damaged works are the originals that were salvaged—thirty out of a total of one hundred and eleven.
On the bridge, two-thirds of the way across, stands the water tower, which predates the bridge itself. This ensemble proudly represents the city’s souvenirs. However, the tower’s history is less cheerful; it long served as a prison with two grim options. You could be taken down to a damp, dark cellar or up to the torture chamber in the attic…
Wandering through the old town, there are arcades, viewpoints, hidden paths, streets, and alleys, adorned with vibrant murals, shop signs, and elegant city palaces. Flânerie remains an art form here. Many people stroll along the Seepromenade in stylish or at least fashionable attire, settling on one of the numerous terraces for a glass of wine while gazing at the snow-capped peaks.
The city prospered thanks to trading houses, powerful monasteries, and later, the sale of watches
A History of Prosperity
Lucerne’s prosperity is largely due to its location by Lake Lucerne. Before the arrival of trains and cars, the lake was a key part of the trade route between north and south. Products from Italy were transported by horse and cart over the Gotthard and then by water to Lucerne for further distribution inland.
The city prospered thanks to trading houses, powerful monasteries, and later, the sale of watches. Timepieces from western Switzerland found their way into upscale shops. One of the top addresses is Bucherer, initially the exclusive dealer of Rolex, now selling other timepieces at astronomical prices.
Discover the City
There are few cities where you can combine so many exciting activities in winter as in Lucerne. Historic centre, creative Neustadt, museums, delicious food, unique history, accessible mountain peaks, boat trips across the lake, and all kinds of winter sports.
Although it can be wintery in Lucerne, it’s not a city of deep freeze. It often feels spring-like, hence the palm trees. Today, the sun is shining brightly. Coats are open, sunglasses perched on noses. From my terrace beneath an ornate façade, I see snow lying on the distant mountains. Not far from here, people are skiing.
When trade across Lake Lucerne dwindled, the city did not fall into a black hole. Tourism began to flourish. The lake, nearby mountains, summer, winter—nineteenth-century Europe was enchanted by the Alpine world and wanted to see it for themselves. Luxurious hotels were built, both at the city’s edge and atop beloved mountains like Rigi and Pilatus.
Coats are open, sunglasses perched on noses. From my terrace beneath an ornate façade, I see snow lying on the distant mountains. Not far from here, people are skiing
In Lucerne, Maximilian Pfyffer von Altishofen founded the first five-star hotel, the Grand Hotel National, in 1870, which still stands today. His successor, César Ritz, laid the foundation for the classic and stylish hotel culture that remains the standard in the luxury segment. Other luxurious hotels followed, such as Montana, Palace, and Beau Séjour.
This has given Lucerne an atmosphere of grand enjoyment—of beautiful things, good food, and quality above all. So, when a new concert hall was needed, only the best would suffice, one that now ranks among the top in Europe. Perhaps it’s fitting in a city where Richard Wagner had a grand house by the water. Today, the Richard Wagner Museum occupies this site, featuring his Erard grand piano from Paris as a highlight. It celebrates his music and time in Lucerne (1866–’72), but also acknowledges his antisemitic views.
There are also more remarkable museums in the city. For instance, the Verkehrshaus der Schweiz, showcasing many beautiful trains, also houses the Swiss Chocolate Adventure, offering a glimpse into the world of famous chocolate, including tastings, of course. Or visit the Bourbaki Panorama, which narrates the story of 87,000 French soldiers who sought refuge in Switzerland during the Franco-Prussian War, an event that contributed to Switzerland’s acceptance as a neutral country in major international conflicts.
Gastronomic Revival
In terms of cuisine, the city has developed significantly in recent years. Classics like the Chügelipastete now have a vegan variant, established restaurants have refined their typical Swiss dishes, and young chefs continue to bring innovative gastronomy to the city. For instance, Fabian Dumitrache with his Bündnerland or Robert Steuri from Maihöfli, which has a Michelin star.
At the stylish FED, Chef Simon Tanner is at the helm. He views the city’s gastronomic revival this way: ‘Thanks to a history of trade, Lucerne is open to other influences. We love tradition, but we also want new things. At Fed, we aim for traditional soul food, but in a modern sharing style, with influences from Asia, South America, and Japan.’
‘Thanks to a history of trade, Lucerne is open to other influences. We love tradition, but we also want new things’
After dinner, I walk through Neustadt to the pop centre Schüür for a concert by Sportfreunde, a German band with fans in Switzerland. The venue is packed, the music is good, and the atmosphere even better. Afterward, I decide to walk back to my hotel, first through Neustadt, then through the historic heart along the Kapellbrücke and over the promenade lined with palace hotels.
To reach my accommodation, Hotel Montana, I take an electric cable car, a revolution at the time of its construction in 1909-’10. In sixty seconds, I’m transported from the Seepromenade to the lobby. Once in my room, I step onto the balcony and look outside: the dark lake, the snow-capped peaks illuminated by the full moon, and the twinkling lights of the old town. I pour myself a glass of wine and settle into my chair by the window.
Winter Train Journey Through Switzerland
Destin Travel has put together a special train journey to experience the beauty of the Swiss winter landscape. It takes you to top destinations such as Lucerne, Rigi, and Engelberg with Titlis. The journey includes travelling on famous trains like the Golden Pass Panorama Express and the Glacier Express from Zermatt to St. Moritz, which passes through Switzerland’s Grand Canyon. Winter doesn’t get much better than this.