Our road trip starts in Valparaíso, the city nicknamed ‘The Jewel of the Pacific’. Located on the hills overlooking the Pacific Ocean, this UNESCO World Heritage site is a marvel of bohemian charm and labyrinthine streets. The city’s architecture is a colourful blend of colonial and European styles, with weathered buildings painted in vivid hues of red, blue, and yellow.

The spirit of Valparaíso is deeply intertwined with its maritime history. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Valparaíso was the most important port on the sea routes of the Pacific coast of South America that linked the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans via the Strait of Magellan. The port still bustles with activity, and the city’s seafaring legacy is celebrated in numerous museums and through the tales of the local inhabitants, whose lives have been shaped by the ebb and flow of the ocean.

Strolling through the cobbled streets, you’ll encounter street art adorning almost every surface, giving the city an open-air gallery feel. Ascend the many funiculars, some dating back to the late 19th century, to explore the winding alleys and steep staircases that connect the city’s hills, each offering panoramic views of the bustling harbour. 

Amidst this historic backdrop, Valparaíso pulses with life. Its cafés, bars, and restaurants are filled with a mix of locals, students, and travellers, all contributing to the city’s lively vibe.

In Chañaral de Carén, some 30 kilometres from Monte Patria, we stop to visit Claudio Araya and Marcela Iriarte, horse whisperers whose approach to taming horses is as soothing as it is unconventional. Instead of using traditional methods, Claudio and Marcela use the soft, melodic sounds of a harp to calm and connect with animals. This is an ancestral method without abuse or violence that uses the whispering technique as a base combined with live harp music. This technique allows them to build trust with even the most skittish or unruly horses.

The taming happens under a full moon, and shouldn’t take more than two hours, whereas ‘normal’ taming techniques can take up to three days and are very stressful for the animals. Claudio tells us he started training horses the old way, by punishing and rewarding, but never quite felt comfortable with it. When a neighbour saw him at work and noticed his soft hand with the animals, he told him about this ancient technique, used in the past as well by the Sioux with pan flutes. The first thing Claudio had to do was learn to play the harp, now 33 years ago. 

This is how it works: the harp is played until the horse is relaxed. Then they let the horse lie down and let it smell the saddle and the reins. Then someone lies down on the horse, so that the animal becomes familiar with feeling a person’s weight. 

Crucial to the training is for everyone there to be relaxed. ‘A horse can hear your breathing from a few metres away,’ Claudio explains. ‘If you are stressed, the horse becomes stressed too.’ The trick is to breathe calmly to lower your heart rate. And, good to know: leave your salami sandwich for later, ‘Horses are natural herbivores and do not like the smell of meat – they’ll think you are a predator.’ Fruit or vegetables are better as rewards.

As Claudio plays, the horses respond to the calming vibrations, slowly becoming more docile and receptive. This approach not only tames the horses but also creates a deeper connection between human and animal, rooted in mutual respect.

A whale safari in Chañaral de Aceituno, located along the remote and stunningly beautiful coast of northern Chile, is a breathtaking adventure into the heart of marine life. This small fishing village, part of the Pingüino de Humboldt National Reserve, is renowned for its incredible opportunities to observe whales up close, particularly during the migration season from November to March.

The waters around Chañaral de Aceituno are rich in marine biodiversity, attracting a variety of whale species, including humpbacks, fin whales, and the occasional blue whale, the largest animal on the planet. The sight of these majestic creatures breaching the surface, their massive bodies arcing gracefully before crashing back into the water, is awe-inspiring.

In addition to whales, the area is home to dolphins, sea lions, and a multitude of seabirds, including the iconic Humboldt penguin. The Humboldt penguin is a small, endangered penguin species native to the coasts of Chile and Peru. Recognized by their black-and-white plumage and distinctive black chest band, they primarily feed on fish like sardines. Habitat loss and overfishing threaten their survival, making conservation efforts crucial for their protection.

The local guides, often seasoned fishermen, share their deep knowledge of the sea and its inhabitants, making the safari both educational and exhilarating.

Check out Turismos Orcas for the whalewatching tours.

San Pedro de Atacama, nestled in the heart of the driest desert on Earth, is a place of fascinating contrasts. Its surreal landscapes and rich, millennia-old cultural heritage blend seamlessly, creating a unique ambience. The town is home to the Atacameños, an Indigenous people who first settled the area 3,000 years ago.

In and around San Pedro de Atacama, you’ll find many archaeological sites ranging from the early Atacameño period through the Inca era and beyond. Aldea de Tulor, for instance, a village of hundreds of round adobe houses founded around 300 B.C. and abandoned when the nearby San Pedro River changed course. Or Pukará de Quitor, the ruins of a hilltop fortress dating back to the 12th century. Petroglyphs spanning thousands of years can be seen at Yerbas Buenas and in Río Grande, an hour’s drive north of San Pedro de Atacama.

Beyond its historical and cultural relevance, San Pedro is the gateway to the Atacama Desert, a strategic point for exploring natural wonders like Valle de la Luna (Valley of the Moon), the Tatio Geysers, and the highland lagoons. Valle de la Luna is a must-see for nature lovers, with its geological formations sculpted as if from another planet. The Tatio Geysers, located over 4,000 metres above sea level, offer a breathtaking spectacle at dawn when steam from the fumaroles rises majestically into the cold morning air.

The highland lagoons, surrounded by flamingos and mountains, are another regional treasure, ideal for those who seek to admire the rich Andean wildlife up close. Adventurers can challenge the heights of nearby volcanoes like the imposing Licancabur or explore the vast Salar de Atacama, home to fascinating biodiversity.

Lauca National Park, in Chile’s high-altitude plateau, is a natural sanctuary of unparalleled biodiversity and majestic landscapes. Located in the Arica and Parinacota region, this park is a dream destination for those seeking to immerse themselves in nature and adventure in the altiplano or puna. Its vast expanse includes lagoons, salt flats, and towering volcanoes such as Parinacota and Pomerape, whose snow-capped peaks rise prominently over the Andean landscape.

Chungará Lake, one of the highest bodies of water in the world at 4,500 metres above sea level, serves as the park’s visual heart, offering breathtaking panoramas. The Parinacota volcano, with its near-perfect conical shape and towering height of 6,348 metres, reflects in the lake’s crystal-clear waters, creating a postcard-worthy image. This Andean peak is a natural guide for adventurers exploring the park’s rugged beauty.

Lauca is also home to a remarkable array of highland wildlife. Flamingos, vicuñas, guanacos, and condors roam its lands, allowing visitors to observe these creatures in their natural habitats. Hiking trails crisscross the park, allowing travellers to delve into this unique ecosystem.

Beyond its natural wealth, the park holds a rich historical legacy. The small village of Parinacota, of pre-Hispanic origin and perched at 4,400 metres, is part of the region’s colonial church corridor. Its church, built in the 16th century by missionaries, was declared a National Monument of Chile. Composed of mud, straw, and lime as primary materials, the church stands out with its arches and crowns of pink volcanic stone at the top of the wall doors surrounding it. 

Check Lauca National Park website