In the footsteps of Kobo Daishi Kukai
The Shikoku Henro
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Are you an independent traveler who highly appreciates cross-cultural experiences? Are you looking for a spiritually enriching as well as an active journey? Join us on Japan’s Shikoku Henro, and get ready to experience genuine local hospitality and a nirvana of cultural emotions.
This story begins a long, long time ago, somewhere between 794 and 1185, during the Heian period of Japanese history, when a young man named Kobo Daishi Kukai abandoned his career as a civil servant to study esoteric Buddhism in Tang China. On his return to Japan, he set out to spread its teachings, and in a remote mountainous area in northern part of Wakayama, he opened the training place on the mountain of Koya: Koyasan.
One thousand two hundred fifty years after the birth of Kobo Daishi Kukai, Koyasan is an important sacred place in Japanese Buddhism.
It is said that Kobo Daishi Kukai, as an ascetic monk, visited places of great spiritual significance in his native Shikoku, indulged in meditation, and founded the 88 sacred sites of Shikoku. Since then, it has attracted pilgrims from all over the world. Many with religious motivations, but many others for healing, cultural and spiritual enrichment, as an excuse for hiking, or simply as part of a unique journey.
Whatever your motivation, this pilgrimage trail has everything: mountains and scenic views, pagodas, traditional art and stone gardens, vibrant markets and delicious cuisine, spiritual experiences centered on meditation and asceticism, and the priceless opportunity to stay at many of the temples along the way and experience the genuine culture of hospitality that is rooted in the region.
Many people go to Koyasan to thank for making the pilgrimage safely
Shikoku Henro
Walking the Shikoku Henro allows you to discover the temples and attractions off our Japanese prefectures: begining from Tokushima and extending, Kochi, Ehime and Kagawa. It also allows you to experience the unique culture of Osettai: Food and drink, words of welcome and gratitude, and guidance when lost are all part of the culture that is given to the pilgrims by the strangers they encounter.
The Shikoku Henro is compared to a symbolic path to enlightenment in Buddhism: in which temples 1 to 23 represent the idea of awakening (hosshin), from 24 to 39 austerity and discipline (shugyō), from 40 to 65 reaching enlightenment (bodai) and from 66 to 88 the entry into nirvana (nehan).
But our route to nirvana has no predefined order. If there is one thing we are sure of, our journey’s most logical starting point should be Kyoto Station, Osaka Station, Namba Station, or Kansai International Airport. From all of them, there are very convenient connections to what we recommend as our starting point. But, of course, each traveler can configure their own way in the order that best suits him.
This is our selection of must-sees among the 88 temples on the Shikoku Henro. Our particular path to the traveler’s nirvana in Japan. The journey in the footsteps of Kobo Daishi Kukai, a figure whose wisdom is still legendary throughout the country of the rising sun.
Koyasan
About one thousand two hundred years ago, Kobo Daishi Kukai constructed in Koyasan a Buddhist temple complex. Today this sacred place continues to be visited by hundreds of thousands yearly. And it is expected that 2023 will attract many more who want to experience the celebrations during the Buddhist memorial service to mark the 1250th anniversary of the birth of Kobo Daishi Kukai, which will take place between May 14 and July 9.
DANJO GARAN SACRED TEMPLE COMPLEX
Danjo Garan Sacred Temple Complex is one of the two sacred places in Koyasan, together with Okuno-in, the first place Kobo Daishi Kukai built when he founded Koyasan. It is said to embody the mandala worldview based on esoteric Buddhism. The 19 buildings surrounding it include Koyasan’s main hall: Kondo. Another major attraction is the 48.5-meter-high Konpon Daito Tower.
People believe that Kobo Daishi Kukai still resides meditating on people’s happiness in a mausoleum at Okuno-in
Okuno-in
People believe that Kobo Daishi Kukai still resides meditating on people’s happiness in a mausoleum at Okuno-in, another sacred place in Koyasan. Twice a day (6:00 and 10:30), Koyasan priests bring Kobo Daishi Kukai’s food . This ceremony allows people to feel that Kobo Daishi Kukai is still alive today.
Okuno-in is also an essential place for Shikoku pilgrims, as it is here that they receive the red seal at Gokusho when they pay their respects after completing Shikoku’s 88 pilgrimage sites.
Must-see:
The recommendation to many visitors is the experience of exploring Okuno-in at night. The guided tour, with explanations in English, provides insight into cultural aspects such as the symbolism surrounding the shape of the monuments, Buddhist funeral culture, and other traditions.
Kongobu-ji Head Temple
Kongobu-ji Head Temple, the head temple of the Shingon sect of Buddhism, was founded by Kobo Daishi Kukai and has approximately 3,600 branch temples throughout Japan. It is a temple prized for its Banryu-tei Garden, the largest stone garden in Japan, and many beautiful paintings on the sliding doors. In 2004, Kongobu-ji Head Temple became UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site as part of the Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range.
Must-see:
At the dojo in Kongobu-ji Head Temple, visitors can experience “Ajikan” meditation, a breathing and meditation technique of the Shingon Buddhist sect.
Shojin-ryori is a vegetarian Buddhist cuisine made entirely from wild edible vegetables and plants
Shukubo: staying in a temple
Koyasan is a unique place to live the experience of staying in a shukubo, one of the most genuine ways to feel ancient and traditional Japan.
More than 50 temples with different histories and characteristics are hosting visitors as pilgrim’s lodgings.The design of each temple uniquely showcases aspects of Japanese philosophy and aesthetics, including beautiful gardens and paintings on the sliding doors. The experience provides insight into the inner workings of Shingon monastic life, as well as participating in practices such as meditation (ajikan) or sutra calligraphy copying practices (shakyo).
Vegetarians and Vegans welcome
Shojin-ryori is a vegetarian Buddhist cuisine made entirely from wild edible vegetables and plants. It may sound straightforward, but it’s not as simple as it sounds. Harmoniously composed in a symphony of seasonal flavors, shojin-ryori tries to bring out the essence of its ingredients. Some of its specialties include koya dofu and its sesame-flavored relative, sesame tofu.
The roots of Koyasan’s vegetarian cuisine can be traced back to Furemai-ryori. Since the Heian period (794-1185), the tradition has been passed down from generation to generation, with dishes served to the royal family, feudal lords, and pilgrims from all over the country as a way of saying welcome to Koyasan. Koyasan is a place of ascetic practice, where meat eating was strictly prohibited and Syojin-ryori was eaten.
Heading to Tokushima
The Nankai Ferry provides one of Japan’s most important ferry transport links, connecting Wakayama Prefecture with Tokushima Prefecture. Part of the attraction of the route lies in the short crossing time: only two hours, faster than any land-based alternative.
Ryozenji Temple
In Tokushima, many pilgrims begin their pilgrimage at Ryozenji Temple, the first temple on the route. The temple grounds are a welcoming space full of attractions, such as a fantastic main hall with countless lanterns hanging from the ceiling, a two-storied pagoda built more than 600 years ago, a hall enshrined with KoboDaishi Kukai in front of a large , colorful carp swim freely, and a garden with a moss-covered waterfall and beautifully landscaped streams.
Additionally, visitors can purchase traditional pilgrimage gear, such as white robes, bamboo sedge hats, pilgrim staffs, and pilgrimage stamp books. There are no strict rules regarding clothes or items you need to bring on the pilgrimage, however, wearing pilgrim attire will help focus your body and mind, as well as make you more recognizable as an “ohenrosan” (pilgrim) on the road, allowing for more chances to interact with the locals. Wearing pilgrim attire can help one to better understand the spirit of the pilgrimage.
Wearing pilgrim attire will help focus your body and mind
German House
While walking the pilgrimage route, there are also many famous tourist locations of Tokushima that you can stop at.
Located close by Ryozenji Temple is the “Naruto German House”, a museum that features the exchange and interactions that took place between German POWs and the locals during WWI at the “Bando POW Camp” that existed in Naruto City. The management style of the Bando POW Camp was surprisingly “free” during the war. Thanks to a lifestyle that was as free as possible for the German POWs and a deep rooted hospitality from the locals, the two groups grew to mutually respect each other and a warm cultural exchange was born.
At the Naruto German House, visitors can learn about the lives of the German POWs at the Bando POW Camp through belongings and photographs from the POWs, as well as life-sized robots.
Anrakuji Temple
We have arrived at the 6th temple of the pilgrimage: Anrakuji Temple. If you’re walking the pilgrimage and start right in the morning at Ryozenji Temple, then this temple is the perfect distance for an all day walk, and is one of the standard places pilgrims stay at for lodgings. Anrakuji Temple’s history dates back to the 9th century, making it one of the oldest and most important temples in this area. Among the 88 temples of the Shikoku Pilgrimage, it is one of the few shukubo temples (temples with lodging accommodations), and has been helping to heal weary pilgrims and travelers for over 400 years.
One of the opportunities provided by staying at the temple is the chance to participate in temple services. After chanting sutras and listening to the monks in the temple’s main hall, surrounded by a peaceful and silent night, guests make their way to the Kanjokutsu, located at the back of the main hall. In the absolute darkness of the cave, a blue stream flows, and visitors can experience tranquility next to the faint candle light.
Welcome to Kochi
Sunday Market and Hirome Market can be the starting point of a visit to the city of Kochi, which should always include its famous Kochi Castle and Chikurin-ji Temple.
Chikurin-ji Temple
The 31st temple was founded in 724 by the monk Gyoki by order of Emperor Shomu, inspired by Mt. Godai in Tang China. You’ll find it on Mt. Godai, about 20 minutes drive from Kochi city center, and its main deity is Monju Bosatsu, the “Buddha of Wisdom.”
Chikurin-ji Temple is known for its beautiful gardens, filled with lush greenery and serene water features, where visitors can experience sutra copying and meditation while enjoying the garden views. It is also possible to experience Henro in guidance of the monk and deeply understand it.
In 2023, the 1,300th anniversary of the temple’s founding will be celebrated, and several commemorative events are expected in spring and autumn.
Iwamoto-ji Temple
Iwamoto-ji Temple is the 37th temple of the 88 sacred places of Shikoku. It is located in the town of Shimanto, where the river of the same name flows. That river is known for its stunning natural beauty and clear, clean waters. The river is surrounded by lush forests, rolling hills, and scenic mountains, making it a popular destination for outdoor enthusiasts, including hikers, campers, and kayakers. The Iwamoto-ji Temple is the only sacred place in Shikoku that enshrines the five main deities. But wait a minute, what is Marilyn Monroe doing there?
The temple is known for the 575 ceiling paintings such as landscapes, birds, famous people (like Marilyn Monroe), flowers, etc., in the hope that people of all races and religions from all over the world would visit the temple.
Must-see:
From May to September, Iwamoto-ji Temple offers what is undoubtedly the most unique experience in Kochi Prefecture: a day of Zen meditation in the Shimanto River. Its uniqueness has earned the “Experiences in Japan” label from the Japan Tourism Board.
Practical Travel Info
Japan has great transportation that is immaculately accurate. Here’s how to get there.
Take a limousine bus from Kansai International Airport
Buses run between Kyoto and Koyasan and between Kansai International Airport and Koyasan are available for a limited period of time.
How to get to Koyasan by train travelling from Osaka International Airport (Itami Airport), Kansai, International Airport or Shin-Osaka
Take the Nankai Ferry from Wakayama to Tokushima Prefecture
How to get to Kochi (By plane, train or bus)
How to get to Tokushima
Travel Smart in Wakayama (Train & Bus)
Koyasan Rickshaw, a Unique Stay Experience
Hirome Market
Located in the center of Kochi city (within walking distance of its famous castle), this covered market, also known as Kochi’s Kitchen, features some 65 restaurants and souvenir stores. At Hirome, visitors can sample local specialties such as katsuo no tataki (seared bonito).
The best way to experience the friendliness of the Kochi people is to eat at shared tables at this market.
Sunday Market
The Sunday Market in Kochi has over 300 years of history. About 300 stores line the 1.3 km stretch of Otesuji Street under Kochi Castle. The market is crowded with locals and tourists alike, selling fresh local vegetables and fruits, hardware, cutlery, and plants.
One must-try is Inaka-sushi (country-style sushi), one of Kochi Prefecture’s traditional foods. It is a type of sushi traditionally made with fresh, locally sourced ingredients, such as shiitake mushrooms, devil’s tongue (konnyaku), Japanese ginger (myoga), or bamboo shoots.
The best way to experience the friendliness of the Kochi people is to eat at shared tables at this market
Japan’s oldest and most popular pilgrimage routes
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