Sublime Slopes & Savoury Cheeses in the Pyrenees
A Taste of Gourette
Magazine → Edition #28 →
It is nightfall, and the clouds in the sky are beginning to blot out the stars. I am sitting in a wooden tub filled with hot water outside a small shepherd’s hut. Suddenly, it begins to snow. At first, very slowly, just light snowflakes blowing in the wind. Then, it falls copiously and insistently. The contrast between the cold on my face and the warmth enveloping my body is comforting. I savour a sip of white wine. ‘C’est ça la vie!’
In the heart of the Atlantic Pyrenees, nestled within the natural amphitheatre of a glacial cirque and surrounded by towering peaks rising above 2,500 metres, lies the resort of Gourette. This compact ski resort may be smaller in scale, but it offers ideal conditions for both seasoned skiers and those in search of authentic winter experiences.
Many skiers judge a resort by its size, but the truth is that there are no small or large resorts—only those with more or less snow.
Beyond the snow—the essential element that defines everything—there are always other factors that shape the quality of a ski resort. For us, while skiing remains the primary reason to visit, we are particularly drawn to destinations that offer something more. We seek out places that go beyond the ordinary mountain experience, inviting us to connect with the local culture and its people.
It was for this very reason that Gourette, tucked away in the Pyrenees, captured our attention.
The resort
‘The most special thing about Gourette is its mountains: imposing and steep, a true alpine landscape,’ says local resident Jean Mi Gouadain, a competitive alpine and freeride skier as well as an instructor and coach at the resort’s ski school. From the very first moment we arrived at the village, perched at an altitude of 1,345 metres, we were struck by the sight of the rock and snow masses dominating the town from above.
However, skiers do not live for the views alone; they need slopes and lifts to satisfy their desires. The ski area is divided into two faces, Cotch and Pène Blanque, featuring 42 kilometres of pistes across 40 slopes: 8 green, 11 blue, 17 red, and 4 black, with altitudes ranging from 1,350 to 2,450 metres. The resort boasts 14 ski lifts, including 3 gondolas, 4 six-seater chairlifts, 4 ski lifts, and 3 treadmills. The terrain caters to all levels of skiing: children and beginners can venture safely within a dedicated 14-hectare area, while more experienced skiers will find long, varied, and technical slopes to enjoy, particularly given the cold, dry snow typically provided by the north-facing cirques.
‘In fact,’ Jean Mi tells us, ‘it is common to see families of skiers crossing paths with climbers carrying ropes, crampons, and ice axes…’
Skiers do not live for the views alone; they need slopes and lifts to satisfy their desires
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Off-piste
It is well known that the off-piste possibilities of a resort depend on the skill—and imagination—of each skier. In Gourette, however, there is also a classic route that, under good conditions, should be a must for any self-respecting freerider: the descent of the Vallon d’Anglas. Starting from the summit of the Pène Blanque sector, this route opens up into a wild valley where mountains, rocks, and ice reign supreme. If in doubt, it is always best to hire a guide from the resort’s ski school. Snowboarders should be mindful of a lengthy traverse on the return. And, of course, avalanche safety equipment is mandatory.
Still hungry for more? Then you should try the Gourette-Artouste traverse, a renowned off-piste run with a vertical drop of more than 1,000 metres on a rugged mountain slope. ‘It’s a classic for skiers in the area,’ says Jean Mi Gouadain. ‘You will need mountaineering gear—crampons and an ice axe—to access the Col de la Pène Blanque starting point. As a reward for your efforts, you’ll be treated to an exceptional panoramic view of the Pic du Midi d’Ossau and the Peña Telera.’
Now comes the best part: enjoying the descent into the Soussouéou valley. As we all know, a cautious skier is worth two, so don’t hesitate to hire a mountain guide.
In Gourette there is also a classic route that, under good conditions, should be a must for any self-respecting freerider: the descent of the Vallon d’Anglas
LITTLE JAPAN
A snow groomer has taken us at dusk from the village to the Bezou plateau, where the small summer hut of a local shepherd is located and serves as a cosy winter refuge for tourists. Right next to it, a small, rustic wooden bathtub steams, waiting for us to take a dip in its hot waters. But first, it’s time to stretch our legs with a pleasant snowshoe walk to the Pic Ger. The sky is as dark as a black diamond, and the sled dogs howl loudly as they sense our presence. A three-kilometre walk takes us through a beautiful forest of beech trees covered in fresh snow. We call it ‘Little Japan’. Our steps lead us to a panoramic point where the lights of the Laruns valley illuminate the scene. ‘In this forest, it is easy to see wild animals in summer,’ our guide tells us. ‘In winter, only the foxes remain… sometimes, with a lot of luck, you can see the clumsy capercaillie.’
For those who wish to explore with their snowshoes beyond the resort, the nearby Aubisque pass is an undeniable attraction. This mountain pass, at 1,709 metres above sea level, offers an unparalleled view of the mountains and, during the winter, is an ideal snow paradise for snowshoeing. From here, you can choose between routes of varying difficulty. One of them, only two kilometres long, is perfect for beginners, while the four-kilometre route is ideal for those seeking a greater challenge. The Aubisque is also a sporting landmark: in summer, it is a legendary stage of the Tour de France.
Nordic Night
Have you ever slept in an igloo? Neither had we, until now. It’s a unique experience: the cold seems to dissolve in the silence of the snow, and the atmosphere is so tranquil that you feel isolated from the outside world. Before that, however, you can’t miss the chance to taste the local gastronomy in a small shepherd’s hut, where David Bordes, a local guide from L’Aventure Nordique, showcases his culinary skills. He offers comforting dishes typical of French mountain cuisine for dinner: cheese fondue, duck foie gras, and a hearty ‘garbure,’ the traditional Pyrenean soup. This is part of the evening ritual: good food, lively conversation, and a glass of wine by the fire.
Fromage
‘Baaaah! Baaaaah!’ Dozens of sheep bleat around us. The younger ones scamper in their stalls, engaged in what looks like a playful game of ‘run, I’ll catch you,’ while some older sheep stare at us with their eerie, ovine gazes. Wait a minute—what are we doing in a stable surrounded by sheep? Weren’t we in a ski resort
We are at La Ferme de la Montagne Verte, a small farm in the Aas district near the village of Eaux Bonnes, which, as its name suggests, is famous for its thermal waters. Like the Ossau Valley, the mountain meadows have long provided sustenance for sheep and livelihoods for local inhabitants. We have come to partake in a ritual that every traveller should experience in the Ossau Valley: tasting the local cheeses.
‘I used to be an accountant, but I grew bored with it,’ Christine Arripe tells us as she feeds a bottle of milk to a small lamb. When her husband took over her parents’ livestock farm, Christine traded accounting for sheep. ‘I fancied a change; the countryside appealed to me, so I went for it.’
With one hundred percent Pyrenean origins, Christine balances livestock work with tourist visits to her winter farm and summer mountain cabins. ‘It’s hard work, but very rewarding if you do it with passion,’ she shares while tending to her herd. Later, she will show us how to make the famous ‘Tomme de Brebis,’ a hard sheep’s cheese crafted by hand using traditional methods.
Thousands of years ago, the first shepherds in the area learned to preserve and curdle sheep’s milk. Each valley developed its own techniques, leading to a variety of cheeses. Christine has not only mastered the pure sheep’s cheese of the Ossau Valley; she also offers Greuil, feta, and Faisselle, along with innovative dairy desserts at her counter. One by one, she invites us to taste them all. ‘This cheese is delicious!’ our photographer Mikael Helsing exclaims upon trying a piece of crottin gourettois. I couldn’t agree more.
So far, we have skied thrilling runs, explored off-piste adventures, and snowshoed at dawn with sweeping views of towering snow-capped mountains. We’ve wandered through magical forests at dusk, savoured the local delicacies of the Pyrenees, soaked in hot baths surrounded by nature, and, of course, met locals who keep traditional ways of life alive.
I may be repeating myself, but yes, in Gourette, it is easy to exclaim, ‘C’est ça la vie!’
Spirit of the Pyrenees
The Gourette Tourist Office provides all the information you need to plan a memorable stay in the Pyrenees. They can assist you with reservations for various activities, ensuring you have a unique winter experience at the resort and in the valley.