Water roars around us as we set off through the glacial valley, clouds snagging on jagged peaks above. Spring has drenched the Iberian Peninsula, and the Cavallers dam is unusually full, spilling silver into the surrounding wilderness. Boots crunch on granite. Packs shift. The air is crisp, heavy with pine and thaw.
‘This valley is like a backbone of interconnected lakes,’ says Juan Marc Henares, a local guide and passionate freerider. ‘And now is a magical moment: there's still snow at higher elevations, and the Carros de Foc groups of hikers haven't yet arrived.’
We move deeper into the Aigüestortes National Park, hearts thudding with the climb. Federico Borreti, an Italian guide based in Catalonia, points out patches of snow, spring flowers, and lichen-coated rocks. ‘Five hundred meters of elevation gain to go,’ he grins.
We leap over meltwater streams, cross green meadows and polished stone, stop to admire waterfalls that roar like applause. When our legs begin to tire, the refuge appears at last—Ventosa i Clavell, tucked beneath the jagged Travessany peaks. The air stills. We breathe it in. Reaching this place isn’t just about altitude—it’s about attitude.
We’ve come to the Catalan Pyrenees for Open Mountain, a unique annual event hosted by renowned brand Helly Hansen. This is not just a typical hiking event. It's a global initiative, spanning over 20 countries, that aims to reconnect people with nature and promote responsible mountain culture.
‘Our goal is to open the mountains to people safely and enjoyably,’ says Oriol Casanovas, Helly Hansen Spain's brand manager. ‘We're here to share the knowledge of those who live and work in high-altitude environments, ensuring your safety and enhancing your outdoor experience.’
In Spain, Open Mountain offers an immersive experience like no other. Participants spend two nights in a mountain hut, climb to the summit of Mount Montardo, and live alongside seasoned outdoor professionals. ‘We want people to discover and enjoy the mountains without fear, with safety, and in good company,’ Oriol explains. The diversity of the team, including guides, rescuers, meteorologists, skiers, and mountain photographers, ensures a rich and shared passion for the mountains.
At just over 2,200 metres, the Ventosa i Clavell hut offers one of the most stunning panoramic views in the Pyrenees. Below, the dark waters of Estany Negre (‘black lake’) mirror ridges and spires—some rising above 3,000 metres. The dizzying Pa de Sucre, Punta Harlé, and the majestic stone pyramid of Besiberri Nord pierces the sky.
But a mountain hut can mean many things. For some, it's mere shelter; for others, it's a way of life. Its warden, Miquel Sánchez, arrived more than 40 years ago, leaving a job in a Barcelona advertising agency after a traumatic experience in the Himalayas. He was part of the first Catalan expedition to Everest—precisely 40 years ago—and summited the following year. ‘I came back without a job but with the certainty that city life wasn't for me anymore,’ he says, serving hot soup. ‘I didn't know if I'd like cooking or dealing with people... but I liked being here. And that was enough.’
Miquel was also one of the driving forces behind Carros de Foc, the legendary hut-to-hut trail across the national park. ‘In the 1980s, some of us hut wardens started visiting all the others in the park. Since we were running the whole time, someone said, 'Here come the Carros de Foc,' like the movie title Chariots of Fire, and the name stuck.’
Today, it's one of the Pyrenees' most popular long-distance routes.
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In the mountains, knowledge saves lives. That's why Open Mountain includes hands-on sessions about weather, safety, and rescue.
Carlos González, a member of the GREIM mountain rescue unit of the Spanish Civil Guard in Picos de Europa, shares: ‘Zero risk doesn't exist. But many accidents can be prevented with the basics: physical preparation, proper gear, and the ability to read the terrain.’ What causes the most rescue incidents? ‘Overestimating one's abilities and lacking the right equipment.’
Next to him, Alex Van Der Laan, a meteorologist specializing in the Pyrenees, adds: ‘Don't rely on your phone's weather app. Up high, they're useless. In the mountains, you need to learn how to read real weather maps. Things can change in minutes here.’
This isn't about fear—it's about mountain culture. A way of being that blends thrill with awareness. The conversation grows as participants chime in. Another line in the bigger net of shared wisdom.
From the hut, the trail climbs past frozen lakes, streams, and snowfields. Montardo rises quietly like one who knows introductions aren't needed. We move toward its summit in a single file, like a caravan of hobbits—laughing, windblown, and carefully stepping. ‘Short steps are better than big ones in this terrain,’ the guide advises.
The ascent becomes intimate: a dance of rhythm and breath. The rock tells stories. ‘In the 60s, people climbed out of necessity, driven by hunger for the summit. Today, it's for pleasure,’ the guide says beneath the Travessany needles. We cross snowfields beside still-frozen lakes, a landscape clinging to winter's grip. At the final col before the summit, the wind lashes us, and mist wraps around. Each step becomes harder. And more exhilarating.
We hug at the top. There are no views—clouds have closed in—but we know we've reached a place that matters.
The descent is the real test. Our legs wobble, and the rocky terrain demands focus. We move carefully with trekking poles—though a few snowfield tumbles are inevitable. As we descend, the landscape seems transformed. It's as if it can only truly be understood from the summit or on the way down.
Looking back, the landscape seems transformed. As if it can only truly be understood from the summit—or on the way down.
Back at the hut, the day is far from over. David Serrano, co-founder of the craft beer brand Refu, welcomes us with an unfiltered IPA. ‘We're from the Aran Valley,’ he says, ‘and we spend our budget on good ingredients, not marketing,’ he jokes. His beer travels by van, hut to hut.
Next to him, Rober Bosch of EncantArán serves sundried tomatoes in rosemary oil. ‘The first batch was for my mom,’ he tells us. Today, his products are sold at fairs and in restaurants, made the same way: with hours of sunshine, patience, and passion.
Then night falls—but the curtain doesn't. Dinner awaits. Joseba Cruz, itinerant chef and culinary storyteller, appears. Joseba grew up around bakeries and gardens, learning to cook with clay, stones, sun, and wood. By 14, he was in a Michelin-starred kitchen. But he was tired of ego and excess. Today, his restaurant, Le Clandestin, moves through ruins, fields, and huts. No machinery, no frills. ‘What matters isn't protocol, but the product. Eat how you like. Feel however you can.’
That night, at Ventosa i Clavell hut, 2,200 meters high, Joseba cooked slowly, with heart. Pasture-raised beef cooked for 72 hours. Monkfish with emulsions. Homemade bread, like he made when he was seven. ‘I care more about memory than perfection,’ he says.
The next morning, a sunrise yoga session closes the loop. Breath, stretch, silence. All that we live dissolves like morning mist in sunlight. At the heart of OpenMountain, one thing remains clear to me: the mountain is a beautiful place to meet others— and to meet yourself. Can you hear its call?
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