‘What extraordinary beauty!’ exclaims Ecuadorian traveller Jorge Pérez. ‘It’s easy to understand why the king wept as he left this beautiful and fertile land behind.’ We are at the Torre de la Vela in the Alhambra, gazing down at the city of Granada from above, with the peaks of the Sierra Nevada in the background rising from the sea to touch the sky.
Tears for Granada itinerary takes us across a land of striking contrasts: from the arid badlands to the snow-covered peaks of the Sierra Nevada, from high-altitude vineyards and centuries-old olive mills to Granada’s vibrant flamenco neighbourhoods. It is, ultimately, an unforgettable exploration of one of Spain’s most diverse regions, where spectacular landscapes, history and the rich legacy of Al-Andalus converge.
‘It reminds me of Cappadocia,’ Jorge comments as we arrive at our hotel. We are staying at a unique cave hotel where every room has been carved directly into the rock. An eccentricity? Not at all. For centuries, people in this part of Granada have lived, and many still live, in cave dwellings excavated into the hillsides. Today, visitors can experience this ancient way of life while enjoying surprisingly comfortable accommodation that naturally stays cool in summer and warm throughout winter, without the need for air conditioning or heating.
There will be plenty of time to sleep later. First, adventure awaits.
Our journey begins amid the surreal landscapes of the Granada Geopark, a UNESCO Global Geopark covering more than 4,700 square kilometres of extraordinary geological formations that seem almost extraterrestrial. Ravines, gullies and canyons sculpted by millions of years of erosion and sedimentation have created an austere landscape that nevertheless conceals a remarkably rich past.
There is no better way to explore it than by mountain bike. The winding tracks threading through these spellbinding badlands reveal prehistoric dolmens, archaeological sites and important palaeontological remains, transporting us back to a time when giant creatures roamed these ancient lands.
‘This olive mill has belonged to my family for five generations,’ says Juan Miguel Jiménez as he leads us through the Paluenca estate, whose history stretches back more than seven centuries.
His family has preserved the art of olive oil production much as the Phoenicians and Romans once practiced it. Much of the original machinery is still in working order, and today they continue to produce one of the region’s finest extra-virgin olive oils using methods that have stood the test of time.
‘It’s like travelling through history,’ says Alejandro González, a Venezuelan mountain biker. He’s right. Except that history here comes with an excellent host. Juanmi is always ready to share stories and songs, guitar in hand, accompanied by generous tastings of his olive oil and, naturally, a few glasses of local wine.
Speaking of wine, no visit would be complete without stopping at Bodegas Muñana, home to one of Spain’s most distinctive mountain wines. Here, at more than 1,000 metres (3,300 feet) above sea level, visitors can walk or cycle through the vineyards before exploring the remarkable winery itself. Although the altitude presents considerable challenges for viticulture, it is precisely these extreme conditions that give the wines their distinctive personality.
Remaining faithful to the cave-dwelling heritage of the region, the cellars have also been excavated into the rock.
‘I’ve never seen Saturn’s rings before,’ says Alejandro as he peers through the telescope. As dusk falls, we arrive near the village of Gorafe, often referred to as the Desert of the Stars, where an unforgettable evening awaits us at the Los Coloraos Starlight Observatory.
The prestigious Starlight certification is awarded only to places with exceptionally low levels of light pollution. Here, the darkness is so complete that Saturn’s rings appear in astonishing detail, while the Milky Way stretches overhead in dazzling clarity.
The night sky becomes more than a spectacular sight. It becomes a window into the distant past.
Before heading for the summit of Chullo Peak, at 2,610 metres (8,563 feet) the highest mountain in the province of Almería, we stop at La Calahorra Castle, whose elegant silhouette dominates the landscape from almost every corner of the region. Its Renaissance architecture is remarkable, and its beauty alone justifies the visit. Declared a National Historic and Artistic Monument in 1922, it stands as one of southern Spain’s finest castles.
Higher up, beyond the 2,000-metre mark at Puerto de la Ragua, we begin the straightforward ascent to Chullo. The route is technically easy, yet richly rewarding, offering magnificent panoramas across the vast Sierra Nevada massif. Tomorrow we will be riding through the very mountains stretching across the horizon.
This is perhaps one of the Iberian Peninsula’s least known and most underrated mountain regions. The walk to the summit is of moderate difficulty, perfect for those who appreciate the simple pleasures of mountain landscapes, fresh air and unhurried adventure.
Missing the opportunity to enjoy skiing, snowboarding or snowshoeing in Sierra Nevada, Europe’s southernmost ski resort, would be unthinkable. The resort occupies a truly unique setting. On exceptionally clear days, few ski destinations anywhere in the world can rival the experience of gazing from its highest slopes across the Mediterranean towards the mountains of North Africa. It is a view that perfectly captures the spirit of this remarkable region, where Europe and Africa seem almost close enough to touch.
‘You’re about to experience exactly what I experience every day. Out here, everything is authentic.’ These are the words of Antonio Yebra, a cattle rancher who embodies a disappearing way of life. He is widely regarded as the last cowboy of the Sierra Nevada.
Antonio, or Toño, as everyone calls him, welcomes us to his farm in Laroles, a picturesque village tucked away in what locals call the Hidden Alpujarras. ‘We’ll ride through villages, farmland, forests and mountain ravines until we reach my refuge high in the mountains,’ he says as he prepares our pack mules.
This is much more than a scenic excursion. It is an opportunity to immerse ourselves in a centuries-old pastoral tradition that survives today thanks to a handful of people like Toño. We travel along ancient mule tracks winding between cultivated fields and orchards. Gradually, the landscape becomes steeper and wilder, but our sure-footed animals seem completely unfazed. ‘They’re like tractors,’ Jorge laughs as we marvel at the effortless way the mules climb the mountainside.
A well-earned break allows us to savour local cheese preserved in olive oil, accompanied by regional wine, while almond trees in bloom bathe the surrounding hillsides in delicate shades of pink.
‘Welcome to my mountain refuge,’ says Toño. We are now more than 2,000 metres above sea level. Sunset washes the Sierra Nevada in warm golden light, setting the scene for one of those quintessential mountain evenings every traveller dreams about: a small stone refuge, a crackling fire, a hearty dinner, a bottle of local wine, good conversation and even better company.
Above us, the stars seem brighter than anywhere else.
The following day, we set off to explore the best-known villages of Las Alpujarras: Capileira, Bubión and Pampaneira, the celebrated White Villages. Perched on the southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada, these picturesque settlements seem suspended in time, with their whitewashed houses, narrow cobbled streets and unmistakable Moorish character.
A stroll through their winding alleyways reveals, at every turn, the enduring legacy of Al-Andalus. This was the last stronghold of the Muslim population on the Iberian Peninsula after the Reconquista, and its cultural imprint remains woven into the region’s architecture, traditions, and atmosphere.
One of the journey’s defining moments is the ascent of Mulhacén, at 3,479 metres: the highest peak on the Iberian Peninsula. It is a rewarding mountain challenge, offering breathtaking panoramas from the summit. As we climb, we are accompanied by the legend of Muley Hacén, Boabdil’s father, who is said to have been buried on the mountain that now bears his name.
‘Every city has its own charm; Granada has its own, and everyone else’s too.’ So wrote the great Spanish poet Antonio Machado, and it is difficult to disagree.
Arriving in Granada, however, does not mark the end of our journey. No visit would be complete without exploring the Alhambra, the magnificent architectural masterpiece of the Nasrid Kingdom and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1984.
‘Beauty like this is deeply moving,’ Jorge says as we stand in the famous Court of the Lions. The magic of the Alhambra lies in the extraordinary harmony between art, architecture and nature. Its lush gardens, exquisitely decorated palaces and imposing defensive towers transport visitors to an era when beauty and balance shaped every aspect of life.
Yet Granada is far more than the Alhambra alone. There is still time to wander through, and, naturally, enjoy a leisurely tapas crawl in, the Albaicín, the city’s oldest quarter. Its labyrinth of narrow streets, intimate squares and spectacular viewpoints still echoes with the spirit of the past, blending effortlessly with the lively voices of travellers who, like us, have come from around the world to experience its timeless beauty.
Now, at last, it is time to say goodbye. We leave a land that, like Boabdil before us, is likely to bring tears to our eyes.
Primitivo Travel invites travellers to discover immersive experiences that connect them with the authentic essence of Spain. Inspired by a return to the essentials, the company designs active journeys through a Spain that remains largely untouched by mass tourism, a country of ancient traditions, dramatic landscapes and living heritage, where travellers can discover the roots of cultures that have shaped the Iberian Peninsula for centuries.
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